Tsunda Church

Nestled just 7 kilometers from the legendary cave city of Vardzia, in Georgia’s Samtskhe-Javakheti region, the Tsunda Church rises above the rugged terrain like a sentinel of the past. This Orthodox cathedral, perched atop a rocky cliff, stands beside natural hot springs and cascading terraced gardens—elements that make it not only a sacred site, but also a place of serene beauty and contemplation for those exploring the surrounding landscape.

The Church of Saint John the Baptist in Tsunda is believed to have served as both the political and spiritual center of Javakheti during the zenith of Georgia’s Golden Age, spanning the 11th to 13th centuries. Paleographic evidence and the architectural features of the chapel—its refined ornamentation and exquisite stone carvings—confirm that the church was built between the 12th and 13th centuries.

A particularly compelling detail is the remarkably preserved inscription carved into the arch above the chapel’s western doorway. Composed in the ancient Georgian Asomtavruli script—the precursor of today’s Georgian alphabet—the inscription reads: “In the name of God, I, Ichkitman, son of Gurgen, built this church upon our land in the name of Saint John the Baptist, to offer prayers for myself and my parents.”

Historians suggest that Ichkitman, son of Gurgen, was a powerful feudal lord during the reign of Queen Tamar, one of Georgia’s most revered monarchs and a central figure in the history of Vardzia. His name also appears in other historical records, most notably in two inscriptions found within the domed church of the Vanis Kvabebi cave monastery, which lies in close proximity to Vardzia.

With its elegant proportions and finely executed craftsmanship, the Tsunda Church is considered a masterpiece of medieval Georgian architecture. Built in the same era as the famed cave complex nearby, it forms an indelible part of Vardzia’s historical and cultural tapestry. Though the church now shows signs of age and is in need of further restoration, it remains a vital highlight on historical and cultural tour routes through the region.

The church is constructed on an elevated stone terrace, with its northern half occupied by the main building and its southern section comprising a walled courtyard. Later additions include an arched gateway to the south and small storage rooms on the eastern and western sides. These elements are believed to have been built during different phases between the 12th and 14th centuries.

The church itself runs along a north–south axis, with the southern façade extending approximately two meters beyond the northern wall. The main entrance is on the southern side, though historical evidence suggests that a second, similarly sized door once existed on the west, likely removed during the construction of the enclosing fence. On the southern side, an open-arched gate rests on four stone pillars, adding both grandeur and utility. The eastern and western boundary walls run parallel to the church’s exterior, whose own walls are over one meter thick—a testament to the durability of its construction.

Large, expertly hewn stone blocks were used in the building of the church. While the inner walls consist of unpolished stones, the columns, arches, and decorative elements were shaped from smoothly cut stone. Sadly, no traces of the church’s original frescoes or colored interior decorations have survived to the present day.

Partial restoration work was undertaken in 1938, focusing on clearing debris and reinforcing parts of the structure. A more comprehensive restoration followed in 1982, aimed at preserving the church’s historical integrity.

When charting your journey through Georgia, be sure to include the Samtskhe-Javakheti region, famed for its landscapes that resemble the sun-soaked charm of the Mediterranean. The drive from the capital city of Tbilisi to Vardzia takes approximately four hours by car and is particularly rewarding during the warm summer and early autumn months, when the mountain slopes burst into a vibrant display of color. The region’s medieval fortresses and churches—set against a backdrop of unique geological formations—will remain etched in your memory as some of the most captivating discoveries of your travels.