Sayram

Just 15 kilometers east of Shymkent lies an enchanting place called Sayram, a village steeped in history, where ancient minarets and mausoleums stand as reminders of a rich past. Sayram is located on the site of the historic city of Isfijab, an important Silk Road trade hub that bore witness to the passage of merchants, scholars, and travelers for centuries.

Interestingly, Sayram holds a special place in Zoroastrian history, as it is the only city in Kazakhstan mentioned in the «Avesta,» the holy book of Zoroastrianism. Later, Sayram became instrumental in the spread of Islam, establishing itself as a significant center for Islamic culture and learning. This historical significance has led to a remarkable concentration of Islamic monuments and mausoleums dedicated to revered medieval scholars and religious figures.

The city’s rise began in the 9th century following the campaign of Samanid ruler Nuh ibn Asad into southern Kazakhstan. Isfijab was transformed into a fortified border stronghold, standing as a bastion on the frontier of the Islamic world. Remarkably, Isfijab was granted tax exemption, essentially operating as a free economic zone. Al-Maqdisi, a 10th-century Arab geographer, described it as «a glorious frontier province, a place of religious dedication… free from famine, with no land tax.» The Samanid conquest brought Islam to the region, yet local tribes continued to follow their own spiritual practices for centuries, gradually embracing the new religion.

Isfijab’s tax-free status and strategic location along the Silk Road fostered economic growth, transforming it into a prosperous trade center. The city’s influence was such that it produced many prominent figures in Islamic culture, such as Ahmed Yassawi, Yu Saremi, Ahmet and Kamaliddin Isfijabi, and K. Bayzaui. However, by the early 17th century, Sayram’s importance as a trade center waned due to internal conflicts, and today, only the village bearing its name remains. Nevertheless, Sayram has preserved its status as a revered pilgrimage destination, drawing believers from near and far to its ancient landmarks.

Locals refer to Sayram as «the place of countless saints,» and it’s easy to see why: almost every corner of this village harbors a mausoleum or mazar (shrine) dedicated to a saint. Pilgrims from around the world visit these sacred sites to pay homage. Among Sayram’s most celebrated monuments are the mausoleums of Sheikh Ibrahim and Karashash-ana, parents of the famed Sufi poet Khoja Ahmed Yassawi. Other notable sites include the mausoleums of Bibigiyas-ana and Salyk Khoja, honoring the legendary prophet Khizr’s parents. Tradition holds that each Friday evening, Hazret Khizr visits these mausoleums to honor his parents’ memory.

Khizr-Paygambar is a prophet not mentioned in the Bible, though in the Quran he appears as an unnamed companion to Moses. After the spread of Islam, a mosque and a grand tower named in Khizr’s honor were constructed in the heart of Sayram. The mosque, now partially lost, left behind a minaret and an underground «chilla-khana» where pilgrims meditated. The tower once stood at 10.5 meters but was reduced to 5.7 meters by an earthquake. Recently restored, the tower still stands as a tribute to the prophet Khizr, whose name, associated with the greening of the earth, means «verdant» in Arabic.

Sayram’s sacred status remains intact, attracting pilgrims across Kazakhstan. Surrounding the former shahristan (walled city) lie six shrines and a minaret, testament to the area’s architectural heritage. Notable among these are the mausoleums of Karashash-ana, Mirali-baba, Ibrahim-ata, and Abdel-aziz-baba. The Ibrahim-ata Mausoleum, believed to date back to the 16th–17th centuries, was erected over the grave of a local sheikh, traditionally thought to be the father of Ahmed Yassawi. Although subject to repairs and modifications over time, the mausoleum is a rare and early example of medieval domed architecture.

In Sayram, the outlines of the shahristan’s ancient earthen walls, gates, and tall mounds still mark the landscape, reminiscent of the city’s storied past. A visit to Sayram offers much for history enthusiasts and pilgrims alike, with its well-preserved legends and fascinating artifacts evoking the spirit of an open-air museum.

Residents of Sayram are known for their warmth and hospitality. Most live in traditional mud-brick homes with open gates, a custom deeply rooted in the village’s cultural heritage. Generosity and kindness are engrained in the people of Sayram, and visitors are often welcomed with open arms.

The quickest route to Sayram is from Shymkent. You can reach Sayram’s center by taxi, local shuttle bus, or from any of the city’s main bus stations, including the Central Bazaar stop at «Lake.» With stops along the way, the journey takes no more than 30 minutes. Step off right after passing through Sayram’s symbolic gates near the Eastern Bazaar—the point where Sayram’s ancient story truly begins.