Khan Tengri Peak

Khan Tengri, situated east of Lake Issyk-Kul near the borders of Kazakhstan and China, is one of the most striking peaks in Central Asia. Though its official height is 6,995 meters (22,949 feet), the glacial cap elevates it to 7,010 meters (22,999 feet), making it one of the five peaks in the region surpassing 7,000 meters (22,965 feet) and a part of the prestigious Snow Leopard award. Known in Kazakhstan as «Kantau» or «Blood Mountain,» the marble summit glows red at sunset, earning its ominous name. At its base lies the Inylchek Glacier, accompanied by the elusive Merzbacher Lake, which periodically vanishes.

Historically, Khan Tengri has often been confused with Pobeda Peak, with different groups attributing the name Khan Tengri to both mountains at various times. Pyotr Semyonov, the first European to witness the peak during an 1857 expedition, mistakenly identified it as Pobeda Peak. The first successful ascent of Khan Tengri was achieved by a Ukrainian team in 1931 via the southern route, which remained the only path to the summit for 33 years. In 1964, a northern route from Kazakhstan was established, and today, there are nine routes to the top.

A unique tradition awaits those who reach the summit: a capsule containing messages from past climbers is buried at the peak. Each successful climber digs it up, adds a new message in pencil (as pens don’t work at such high altitudes), and then reburies it for the next adventurer. Despite the dangers, with numerous climbers having lost their lives over the years, Khan Tengri continues to draw mountaineers from around the world. Its breathtaking pyramid shape makes it a favorite among photographers. Although the mountain is now more accessible, with established routes and base camps, climbers still require special border permits due to its sensitive location—a remnant of the Soviet era, when foreigners were barred from accessing Khan Tengri until 1989.