Lenin Peak

Lenin Peak, located in the Osh Region on the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border, stands at an impressive 7,134 meters (23,406 feet). Known as Ibn Sina Peak in Tajikistan, there have been discussions in Kyrgyzstan about renaming it Manas Peak, though another mountain already bears that name. It ranks as the third highest peak in the former CIS and the second highest in Kyrgyzstan. Lenin Peak is also the tallest in the Trans-Alay Range and the fifth highest in the Pamir Mountains.

The Trans-Alay Range and its highest peak were first explored by Alexei Fedchenko in 1871, with the mountain initially named Peak Kaufmann after Turkestan’s first Governor-General. The first successful ascent was made in 1928 by a team of two Germans and an Austrian, marking the highest point ever reached by man at that time. That same year, the peak was renamed Lenin Peak. Despite political repressions and the challenges of World War II, subsequent ascents followed in 1934, 1937, and 1950. Today, climbers can access 16 established routes, with nine on the southern side and seven on the northern.

Lenin Peak is considered one of the more accessible climbs over 7,000 meters (22,965 feet), earning a reputation as a relatively non-technical ascent. Its proximity to Osh—just a day’s drive—makes it a popular destination for climbers seeking high-altitude experience. Base camps at Achik-Tash and Onion Field provide support for mountaineers, many of whom use the peak as a training ground. However, while the climb may not be technically difficult, the unpredictable weather poses significant risks. In 1974, a blizzard tragically claimed the lives of eight women climbers, and in 1990, an earthquake-triggered avalanche killed 43.

For those not inclined to climb, Lenin Peak is still a sight to behold. Even non-climbers can drive to the base camp to admire the mountain, although the summit is frequently shrouded in clouds. The peak has a pyramid-like shape with a broad base, and its northern slope is notably steeper than the others.