Pobeda Peak

Pobeda Peak, located in the Issyk-Kul Region within the Kokshaal Range along the Kyrgyzstan-China border, is officially named Tomur Peak in Chinese and Jenish Chokusu in Kyrgyz. Standing at an impressive 7,439 meters (24,406 feet), it holds the title of the tallest mountain in Kyrgyzstan and was the second highest peak in the former Soviet Union. Notably, Pobeda Peak is also the northernmost mountain in the world to exceed 7,000 meters (22,965 feet). Its southeastern slopes stretch into China, with the international border running across its east-west ridges and summit. Adjacent to the Zvezdochka Glacier, the peak features a dramatic 3-kilometer (9,843-foot) vertical headwall. Historically, Pobeda Peak was often confused with Khan Tengri, with some suggesting both mountains were referred to as Khan Tengri by various groups. The confusion was officially resolved in 1946 when the peak was renamed Pobeda, meaning «victory» in Russian, in honor of the Soviet victory in World War II.

The extreme weather on Pobeda Peak presents formidable challenges for climbers, with fierce winds—known as the «thousand devils»—sweeping up from the Taklamakan Desert. The first recorded ascent in 1938 was made by a Soviet team, though they were initially unaware they had summited such a significant mountain due to the faulty readings of their airplane altimeter. It wasn’t until later analysis of subsequent expeditions confirmed their achievement, although some still question whether they truly reached the summit. The climb was organized to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol, the Communist Party’s youth group, and for a time, the mountain was referred to as Peak of the 20th Anniversary of the Komsomol.

It wasn’t until 1943 that Pobeda Peak’s height was accurately measured. Tragically, an expedition in 1955 resulted in the deaths of 11 climbers during a severe snowstorm. In 1977, the peak was successfully climbed from the Chinese side, and official Chinese records mark this as the first successful ascent. Today, Pobeda Peak continues to attract climbers, with many successful attempts each year, predominantly by teams from the CIS and Russia.