The Garden of Bahauddin Naqshbandi

The Garden of Bahauddin Naqshbandi

The Bahauddin Naqshbandi Shrine Complex
The Bahauddin Naqshbandi Shrine Complex

Bahauddin Muhammad ibn Burhanuddin Muhammad al-Bukhari, or simply Bahauddin Naqshband, is the most revered Muslim ascetic of the 14th century in Uzbekistan and the founder of the globally renowned Naqshbandi Sufi order. In his homeland of Bukhara, he is honored with the title Balogardon—”the one who wards off misfortunes”—and in folk Islam, he is venerated as the spiritual patron of the settled population in the ancient Bukhara oasis. Over the five centuries of its existence, the memorial and shrine complex of Bahauddin Naqshband in the village of Kasri Arifon has also become the necropolis of the last three dynasties of Bukhara’s rulers. Today, it stands as perhaps the largest site of mass pilgrimage in Central Asia, actively functioning to this day.

Bahauddin Muhammad was born in March 1318 in the village of Kasri Hinduvan, located ten kilometers northeast of Bukhara. He was born into a family of sayyids—descendants of the Prophet Muhammad—who were engaged in gold embroidery and jewelry craftsmanship. His nickname, Naqshband, derives from the Persian word naqshbanon, meaning “engraving” or “pattern-making.” However, this word can also be interpreted metaphorically, imbuing it with a spiritual significance beyond its literal reference to a craft.

A guide-preacher at the shrine complex
A guide-preacher at the shrine complex

The great teacher of Sufi wisdom spent almost his entire life in his native land, where he was buried in March 1389. After his death, the village came to be known as Kasr-i Arifon—”The Castle of the Wise.” Details of Bahauddin Naqshband’s biography are fragmented, as he left no written legacy himself, and the accounts of his life written by his followers in the Naqshbandi order primarily consist of sayings related to spiritual practices and instructive parables. It is known that Bahauddin performed the Hajj to Mecca twice, and his first mentor was Sheikh Muhammad Baba Samasi, who died in 1340. Samasi directed Bahauddin to study under Sheikh Amir Kulal, the successor of Sheikh Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani in the Khwajagan Sufi brotherhood.

Like the great spiritual guide of the Turkic nomads, Ahmad Yasawi (1103–1166), Sheikh Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani (presumably 1125–1199) was a follower of the famous Sufi mystic from northern Iran, Yusuf ibn Ayyub al-Hamadani (1048–1140), who traveled extensively throughout Central Asia and was buried in the Merv oasis—near the city of Mary in modern-day Turkmenistan.

The Bahauddin Naqshbandi Shrine Complex

The ascetic tendencies of the Khwajagan brotherhood were particularly developed in the Yasawiyya order. However, in Gijduvani’s teachings, these tendencies took a different direction, more suited to the mentality of the settled agricultural and craft population of the ancient Bukhara oasis. Becoming the fifth pir—leader of the Khwajagan order—Bahauddin Naqshband further aligned the philosophical views and spiritual practices of the Sufis with the lifestyle of his contemporaries. To this day, his saying, “The heart to God, the hands to work,” remains highly popular in Uzbekistan and neighboring Central Asian countries. This phrase essentially conveys the core principle of the Sufi brotherhood, which after Bahauddin became known as Khwajagan-Naqshbandiyya or simply Naqshbandiyya.

The Heart with the Name of Allah

It is known that Bahauddin Naqshband worked his own land throughout his life. In his interpretation, the principle of voluntary poverty, upheld by the Yasawiyya and Khwajagan brotherhoods, was no longer understood as extreme forms of asceticism, hermitage, and living on alms, but rather as a modest existence sustained by one’s own labor. It is worth noting that Naqshband disapproved of any form of ostentatious piety—whether it was forty-day fasts (chilla), the wanderings of dervishes, or public gatherings with music, songs, and ecstatic rituals. Moreover, he was wary of karamat—pious miracles. Instead, he placed particular emphasis on the state of rabita—the spiritual closeness between a disciple and a mentor, manifested not only in mystical practices but also in everyday affairs.

Pilgrims at the shrine complex
Pilgrims at the shrine complex

Like his predecessor Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani, Bahauddin Naqshband replaced the collective vocal dhikr (dhikr jahri) practiced in the Yasawiyya order with the silent remembrance of Allah’s names—dhikr khafi—

combined with deep physical and mental self-control. From Gijduvani, the Khwajagan order inherited eight meditative and behavioral techniques:

  1. Hush dar dam—control of breathing.
  2. Nazar dar qadam—directing one’s gaze to the tips of the toes to avoid looking at the forbidden or trivial.
  3. Safar dar watan (journey within the homeland)—exploring one’s inner world to draw closer to God.
  4. Halvat dar anjuman (solitude in the crowd)—engaging in worldly affairs while focusing solely on God.
  5. Yad kard—remembering Allah aloud while also remembering Him in the heart.
  6. Bazgasht—reciting dhikr with thoughts solely on Allah.
  7. Nighah dasht—controlling sensations to protect oneself from distractions and sinful desires.
  8. Yaddasht—controlling memories with a focus only on moments of closeness to God.

To these, Bahauddin Naqshband added three of his own techniques:

  1. Wuquf-i adadi—concentration on the correct mental pronunciation of dhikr, focusing not on the quantity of repeated prayers but on their accuracy, quality, and depth.
  2. Wuquf-i zamani—awareness of how one spends their time, dedicating every moment lived to God.
  3. Wuquf-i qalbi (stillness of the heart)—mentally envisioning one’s heart inscribed with the names of Allah.

In essence, the heart inscribed with the word “Allah” became the emblem of the Naqshbandi order.

Political Power and Spiritual Mission

In 1389, Bahauddin Naqshband completed his earthly journey. Almost immediately after, his burial site in the village of Kasri Arifon became a place of mass pilgrimage for both followers of the Naqshbandi order and ordinary Muslims from Bukhara and its surroundings. People turned to the spirit of the saint for help in resolving life’s problems or for support in everyday matters. This attitude toward the graves of Sufi mentors has remained unchanged in “folk Islam” throughout Central Asia since the Middle Ages and continues to this day.

However, for the devout inhabitants of Bukhara, Bahauddin Naqshband, who was known for his kind and responsive nature even during his lifetime, soon became not just an intermediary between God and people, but the spiritual protector of the entire ancient city and its surrounding oasis. It was from the residents of Bukhara that Bahauddin Naqshband received the title Balogardon—”the one who wards off misfortunes.” Although the saint was a real historical figure, over time, his cult took on some resemblance to the cults of agricultural deities that were prevalent in Bukhara before the advent of Islam. For instance, the ziyarat (pilgrimage to the saint’s tomb) began to be performed in March, coinciding with the celebration of saili guli surkh—the festival of red flowers, associated with ancient fertility cults and the rebirth of nature.

Details of the shrine complex's design
Details of the shrine complex’s design

A century after Bahauddin Naqshband’s death, the Naqshbandi order gained exceptional authority and spiritual influence in Central Asia, thanks to the efforts of a new outstanding pir—Nasir al-Din Ubaydullah Khodja Akhrar Shashi (1404–1489). Khodja Akhrar further aligned the Sufi brotherhood with the everyday needs of the region’s population. A significant landowner, he engaged in charity and actively intervened in the politics of the Timurid rulers.

The motto of Khodja Akhrar—”To fulfill one’s spiritual mission in the world, it is necessary to wield political power”—largely defined the future strategy of the Naqshbandi order. Subsequently, the order spread its influence throughout the Muslim world—from the Volga region and Southern Siberia to North Africa and Southeast Asia. The Naqshbandi order included the great Turkic poet and philosopher Alisher Navoi (1441–1501), the Persian poet, philosopher, and music theorist Nuriddin Abdurakhman Jami (1414–1492), as well as Imam Shamil (1797–1871)—the formidable leader of the Caucasian insurgents who opposed the Russian Empire in the 19th century. At various times, the order played a crucial role in the religious, cultural, and political life of regions such as the North Caucasus, India, and Kashmir, and especially within the Ottoman Empire: many of its rulers were themselves members of this Sufi brotherhood. In Turkey, the Naqshbandi order was officially banned and dissolved in 1925 under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who embarked on the path of establishing a secular state.

The Bahauddin Naqshbandi Shrine Complex
The Bahauddin Naqshbandi Shrine Complex

Despite its global successes throughout the Muslim world, the fate of the Naqshbandi tariqat in Central Asia was fraught with challenges. The Timurids were succeeded by the rulers of the nomadic Uzbeks from the Shaybanid dynasty. In the 16th century, they conquered Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara, confiscating almost all the property of Khodja Akhrar’s heirs and even executing the Naqshbandi pir Muhammad Yahya for sympathizing with the Timurids. However, despite the repression against specific individuals, they did not suppress the cult of the holy ascetics that had developed in “folk Islam.” Moreover, in Tashkent and Samarkand, the Shaybanids invested heavily in the construction and restoration of the mausoleums of local saints. In Bukhara, the khans of this dynasty even chose Kasri Arifon as their family burial site. In 1554, at the behest of Abd al-Aziz Khan, Bahauddin Naqshband’s burial was arranged in the form of an above-ground crypt—a sagan, as is customary among nomads—and a large khanaka was constructed nearby—a residence for the Sufi community and pilgrims. In the following centuries, Kasri Arifon grew into a vast necropolis—Dakhmai Shakhon (Tomb of the Kings), where many khans of Bukhara from the Shaybanid, Ashtarkhanid, and Manghit dynasties were buried. Naturally, such proximity did not diminish the popularity of Bahauddin Naqshband’s mausoleum; perhaps it even added to its significance in the eyes of millions of pilgrims.

Naqshband—the Humanist

During the Soviet era, due to the state’s anti-religious policies, the memorial complex in Kasri Arifon fell into decline, although mass pilgrimages to it did not cease. After Uzbekistan regained state sovereignty, the shrine was restored and improved in honor of the 675th anniversary of Bahauddin Naqshband in 1993. At that time, the village of Kasri Arifon was renamed Bahauddin. Major restoration efforts encompassing the entire complex, including Dakhmai Shakhon, were conducted in 2003 at the personal initiative of President Islam Karimov. An entrance hall with a high dome—a darvazakhona—was added, decorative ayvans—terraces for relaxation—were recreated, and an extensive garden with flowerbeds was arranged. In 2012-2013, the memorial complex of Bibi Saida—the mother of Bahauddin Naqshband—was restored. In 2016, the authorities of Uzbekistan decided to completely dismantle the minaret, which is part of this complex. Restorers concluded that the minaret was in critical condition and that it would be easier to construct a replica in its place, decorated to resemble the original, while also increasing the height of the minaret to 30 meters.

It should be noted that all these actions do not contradict the folk tradition of periodically renewing or even completely rebuilding architectural structures in revered places. The restoration and construction works have only a minor impact on the number of pilgrims and foreign tourists. The Committee for Religious Affairs under the Cabinet of Ministers, the Spiritual Administration of Muslims of Uzbekistan, and educational public organizations actively promote the study of Bahauddin Naqshband’s spiritual heritage, as the humanistic ideas embedded within it, particularly tolerance, are highly relevant in today’s Islamic world, which is full of disputes and contradictions.

@ Andrey Kudryashov / “Fergana”

Uzbekistan Islamic Heritage

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6 Days / 5 Nights

Visit Caliph Uthman’s Quran
See Mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari
Wander through Bukhara’s Old City
Tour Samarkand’s Registan Square
Experience Folklore Show in Bukhara

Discover Uzbekistan’s Islamic treasures on this 6-day tour. Explore Tashkent’s historic Khast-Imam Complex, Samarkand’s majestic mausoleums and Registan Square, and Bukhara’s UNESCO-listed architecture. Experience a journey through sacred sites and rich history in Central Asia’s cultural heart.
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