Traditional Azerbaijani clothing is renowned for its beauty and originality, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the region. Women’s dresses are elegantly designed, accentuating the graceful silhouettes and supple waists of Azerbaijani women. These garments are often adorned with intricate embroidery and embellished with stunning gold trims. Men’s attire is equally distinctive, emphasizing strength and courage while allowing for ease of movement.
Historically, women’s clothing was primarily crafted from luxurious silk and velvet, while men’s garments were typically made from sturdy cloth and locally produced cashmere. An interesting aspect of Azerbaijani attire is the underwear, which was made from linen and cotton fabrics. Wealthier individuals could afford silk undergarments, adding a touch of luxury to their wardrobe.
The style of women’s clothing often reflected the wearer’s marital status and age. Young girls and unmarried women typically wore the most vibrant and elegant outfits, while married women opted for more subdued designs.
A typical woman’s ensemble included several key pieces: an over shirt, arkhaluk, chepken, lebbade, kyuleche, kyurdu, ashmek, and bakhari. The shirt featured a single button at the collar, with long, wide, and straight sleeves. The front bottom part was often adorned with silver or gold coins, adding a touch of opulence.
The chepken, a fitted caftan, was worn over the shirt and featured sleeves that ended in decorative oversleeves. Made from velour and various shimmering fabrics, it was a striking addition to any outfit. The arkhaluk is one of the most popular types of clothing in Azerbaijan; it is also fitted and often lined, with some styles featuring a straight cut and side slits. Arkhaluks are available in various sizes and designs.
Lebbade, or dressing gowns, were quilted and lined, with an open collar that tied at the waist with a band. The sleeves were short, and these garments were crafted from velour and other glittering materials, with trim accents on the collar, sleeves, and hems. The ashmek is a quilted outer garment, featuring fur trim along the collar, sleeves, and hem, providing warmth and elegance.
The kyurdu is a sleeveless quilted piece with an open collar and slits on both sides, while the bakhari is a lined garment with straight sleeves that reach the knees and an open collar. It is primarily made from velvet, with decorative bands and chains adorning the collar, hem, and sleeves. The kyuleche is an upper garment that features a goffered hem, extending down to the knees, with sleeves that fall below the elbows.
Azerbaijani women traditionally wore long skirts called tumans, which reached the floor. These skirts were made from silk or woolen fabric, often consisting of 12 pieces with various patterns. Tumans could be goffered or pleated and were embellished with pom-poms crafted from colored silk or gold threads.
To complement their outfits, women wore gold or gilded silver belts with their arkhaluk or chepken, as well as leather belts adorned with silver coins or plates. Footwear typically included embroidered boots or high boots with elongated legs.
The most popular female headpieces were skull caps and silk kerchiefs, with veils worn outside the home. Jewelry played a significant role in enhancing traditional attire, with artisans crafting pieces from gold, silver, and precious stones. Azerbaijani women cherished jewelry, skillfully incorporating it into their outfits. A complete set of jewelry was referred to as imaret, which included headpieces, breast ornaments, rings, earrings, belts, and bracelets.
Men’s traditional clothing typically consisted of an upper shirt, arkhaluk, chukha, and wide trousers. The upper shirt featured buttons or buttonholes and was usually made from satin or sateen, providing both comfort and style.
The arkhaluk was a close-fitting garment, often embellished with frills at the hem and straight sleeves that gradually narrowed at the elbows. Some arkhaluks had one or two pockets and were secured with a collar-button. Materials such as cashmere, satin, and sateen were commonly used in its construction. Young men paired their arkhaluk with a belt or girdle, while older men often wore a sash.
The chukha is another staple of Azerbaijani menswear, featuring buttons or buttonholes along the entire length of the sleeves and decorative stripes on the chest. Men’s trousers were wide and made from woolen fabric, designed for comfort and ease of movement, especially for riding horses.
During winter, men wore sheepskin coats or fur outerwear crafted from natural leather and furs to keep warm. It was customary for men to wear a headdress, which was considered a sign of respect in Azerbaijani culture. Popular options for men’s headgear included various styles of papakhas, typically made from leather, as well as arakchyns, which were silk headdresses adorned with intricate gold embroidery. Elderly men often favored soft, quilted teseks made from coarse white calico, reflecting both tradition and comfort.
Men’s footwear was generally crafted from chamois leather, characterized by solid colors and a lack of intricate patterns. In urban areas, men typically wore boots, while in rural settings, the traditional charyks—a type of soft and flexible shoe—was more common.
Overall, traditional Azerbaijani clothing for both men and women is a vibrant expression of the nation’s cultural identity. Each garment tells a story, reflecting the values and traditions that have been passed down through generations, celebrating the essence of Azerbaijan’s unique heritage.
