Hello!
I’ve been captivated by the idea of traveling along the Pamir Highway! We're heading to Uzbekistan at the end of April and the beginning of May, and I was hoping to combine the trips. However, after checking the current weather in Khorog, I’m feeling discouraged—it’s below freezing at night and only +2–3°C during the day.
Those who know, could you please advise? How is it in early May? Is it worth going?
Even if it’s +17°C in Khorog on, say, May 3rd, it’ll still be cold in the mountains. The ideal time for Pamir is mid-July to mid-September. High-altitude roads may still be blocked by snow in May, and there’s definitely no point in visiting Murghab (at 3,600 meters) or the Pamir Highway. Instead, if you’re flying to Dushanbe in May, I’d recommend heading toward Ayni and Zeravshan instead.
We just returned from Osh.
We traveled the Pamir Highway by car along the route Dushanbe–Osh in six days.
If you use your own car, you’ll definitely ruin the suspension!
Plus, you’ll need excellent driving skills, especially for navigating very narrow mountain roads. Bear in mind—there’s a cliff on one side, and you could drop 150–200 meters straight down Yes, it’s stunningly beautiful!
But my advice for everyone: only use rental cars with drivers!
We’re flying to Tajikistan for a week and renting a car with a driver. However, we heard that the border with Kyrgyzstan is closed, so we’re planning a shortened circular route instead of completing the full highway. Could someone share advice on accommodations and meals along the way?
Food and lodging are generally not an issue.
The border with Kyrgyzstan is open for tourists!
I personally traveled from May 29 to June 5 along the road from Dushanbe to Osh.
Thanks, everyone, for the information!
I’m really upset I didn’t know about the border earlier. I was misinformed. But now, it’s too late to change plans.
Hello!
We recently completed an amazing route: Penjikent – Seven Lakes (Marguzor) – Iskanderkul (we stopped by the lakeside near the Presidential Palace—there’s an excellent and completely deserted spot for swimming) – Kalaikhumb – Bartang Valley – Khorog – Garm Chashma – Ishkashim (including the Afghan market) – Darshay – Bibi-Fatima spring – Langar – Bulunkul – Yashilkul – Sasykkul – Tuzkul – Keng Shiber – Madyan Springs – Murghab – Karakul – Onion Meadow (near Lenin Peak) – Tulpar Kul Lake – Osh.
We also took side trips in the Fann Mountains, including Alauddin Pass (3,780 m), Keng Shiber, and Bel-Ayrik Pass (4,835 m).
The trip lasted 15 days.
We rented cars through Jandiya (+992 88 488 6655), who connected us with the agent Ibrohim Davlatnazarov (+992 93 890 4000). He provided two vehicles: a Lexus and a Toyota. The drivers, Oraz and Muesar, were fantastic. All agreements were fulfilled, though we meticulously discussed and documented everything beforehand. We shared a detailed itinerary, and any attempt to deviate was quickly corrected by reminding the drivers of our plans.
The most challenging areas to access were the Vertical Alpinist Camp in the Fann Mountains, Madyan Springs, and Keng Shiber.
We traveled with tents and portable stoves, and campsites were available in most places. Camping near the Panj River is prohibited (border zone), so we had to move inland where possible. When no camping spots were available, we rented accommodations. Breakfast and dinner were usually prepared on our stoves with supplies we bought in Samarkand, where we flew in (the canned meat there is quite good). For lunch, we relied on cafes recommended by our drivers, all of which were of excellent quality. Surprisingly, the best meal was in Murghab, at a roadside cafe for truck drivers near a small hotel. They served incredible slow-cooked lamb—absolutely unforgettable!
I pitched my tent east of the road (N38.41158834° E71.10825310°) where there’s a rare patch of asphalt without dust. Spent the night without any issues.
The route was mostly the same as mentioned, but the most difficult stretch (for both driver and car) was between Kalaikhumb and Sanabad due to endless road construction. The sight of car carriers from China struggling along was quite pitiful.
In Langar (N37.05438768° E72.67905633°), don’t drive straight—turn left and head uphill (into the Pamir River valley). I was driving a Duster.
When we tried to camp near the border, the guards chased us away Maybe you were lucky and went unnoticed, or had a more lenient patrol on duty...