We crossed the Batken border from Kyrgyzstan into Tajikistan on June 10, 2024, with two cars. To pass through the Kyrgyz section, you must register on a list in advance through a fixer. The Tajik side let us through without any prior applications.
There was no one else at the border—it’s almost unused. In fact, there were no customs officers on the Tajik side at all, and we had to wait for someone to come from Isfara. The process was extremely slow and, unfortunately, required some "small tip."
On the return trip, we exited through the Pamir Highway on June 21. Everything went smoothly there. The Tajik side let us leave without issues, and the Kyrgyz side readmitted us based on the lists.
We arranged the lists through Destination Pamir Travel Company. A certain Erali Torogeldiev handled it for $25 per person for both directions. However, he made a mistake and forgot to include one person on the return list. The Kyrgyz side was ready to leave them stranded between borders—it would’ve happened if the issue hadn’t been resolved in time by tipping again.
One important note: the border is open only to citizens and vehicles of third countries. Kyrgyz and Tajik nationals are not allowed to cross.
Thank you for the information!
I hadn’t considered this option before—I had assumed the border could only be crossed by car at Kyzyl-Art. That route interests me more, but what about obtaining the GBAO permit?
If it’s not too much trouble, could you also provide updated details about the Pamir Highway itself?
For reference, the vehicle is an off-road SUV with all-terrain tires, running on gasoline. We’ll be traveling alone, without backup.
I’m also quite concerned about customs inspections. Previously, we’ve only driven internationally to Mongolia, which was straightforward, albeit not particularly quick. There, we didn’t have to unload the car at all, let alone put everything through scanners. But I’ve read horror stories about this region, where they supposedly make you strip down the car, even removing door panels and interior linings.
but what about obtaining the GBAO permit?
You can arrange it remotely through intermediaries. I handled mine via Omurbek (can’t recall his last name). Two weeks prior, I sent him scanned copies of our passports, and once in Dushanbe, I picked up the permits. Naturally, I requested scans of the permits before payment to confirm there were no errors. Even so, there was a mistake—one permit listed May instead of June. Here’s Omurbek’s Telegram contact: +992 90 111 0154.
How long did it take to traverse?
We weren’t in a rush—it took us 10 days from entry into Tajikistan to exit. You can customize the schedule depending on your interests and availability. Some people complete the Pamir Highway in just two days, but honestly, what’s the point?
What’s the current state of the road?
Up to Darvaz, the road has fresh asphalt and is excellent. Beyond that, there’s construction until Khorog, with no asphalt. From Khorog along the southern Pamir route, it’s a mix of dirt roads and heavily damaged asphalt, all the way to Kyrgyzstan. Between the Tajik and Kyrgyz borders (Kyzyl-Art), it’s practically a tank testing ground. Once you cross into Kyrgyzstan, the roads transition from decent dirt tracks to proper asphalt nearing Osh.
I filmed the entire route using Yandex.Mirrors, so feel free to check it out.
How is the fuel availability along the route? Should we bring extra canisters?
Fuel is available, so canisters aren’t mandatory. Gas might not be an option for you, but it’s the cheapest. Gasoline is readily available at proper stations up to Khorog; beyond that, most villages have makeshift stations where they measure fuel with buckets instead of pumps. It’s advisable to always maintain a reserve for 200–300 km.
Is there anything else to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to drive the highway?
I wouldn’t recommend attempting it with just one vehicle. Three reasons:
If you do it solo, the journey shifts from being predictably adventurous to potentially perilous, and perhaps less enjoyable overall. But that’s just my take.
I specifically equipped my car with brand-new BF Goodrich A/T tires for this trip, confident they’d be durable—and they were. However, we did see plenty of cars with regular tires making it through, though I’d recommend carrying at least two spares. A high-clearance vehicle with four-wheel drive is essential.all-terrain tires
And what about customs?
Don’t worry. It’s the Uzbek side that thoroughly inspects vehicles, not the Kyrgyz or Tajik authorities, particularly at the mentioned checkpoints. Out of four crossings, we were only asked once to remove items from the trunk for visibility.
There was a scanner at the Kazakhstan–Kyrgyzstan border in Kordai, but it’s simple: you drive your car into an X-ray chamber, step out, and let the machine do its job.
I just spoke with Destination Osh. My main question remains: Can you enter the Pamir Highway starting from Kyrgyzstan? After crossing the border, you immediately enter GBAO territory, and from what I’ve read here and elsewhere, GBAO permits are only issued in Dushanbe (whether in person or through intermediaries).
They suggested the following solution: they handle all permits, including the GBAO one, and send them to me electronically. For the border crossing, they submit the documents directly to the border guards. I’d need to print 10–11 copies of the GBAO permit and hand one over at each checkpoint. The cost for two people is $80 (for the GBAO permit and border crossing).
Has anyone heard of this method for entering GBAO?