Rustavi

Rustavi is arguably Georgia’s youngest city, emerging almost from nothing as a workers’ settlement. It wasn’t until the mid-20th century, with the surge of mass industrialization, that Rustavi was officially granted city status. During the Soviet era, the city became a hub of machine-building, heavy industry, and metallurgy. But like many small towns across the post-Soviet space, Rustavi was dealt a heavy blow with the collapse of the USSR. The industries that once defined its skyline crumbled, and the city plunged into a deep economic crisis. Yet, over time, Rustavi has been slowly reclaiming its footing. Today, with a population approaching 120,000, it stands as the third-largest city in Georgia and is poised for a second renaissance.

Due to its industrial past, Rustavi doesn’t boast a long list of traditional tourist attractions. Unlike other Georgian cities steeped in picturesque architecture and bustling heritage sites, Rustavi has little to offer in that regard—at least at first glance. It doesn’t pretend to be a popular tourist hub. And yet, it is precisely this raw, unpolished authenticity that makes Rustavi intriguing. Its charm lies in its difference, in its quiet defiance of expectation.

People have inhabited the Rustavi region since ancient times. During the Trialeti culture period, the area was dominated by tropical swamps, making it largely unsuitable for settlement. However, by the Late Bronze Age, signs of human presence began to emerge. Archaeological finds on Mount Yagluja include traces of settlements from the Hellenistic period, while near the Cathedral, excavations have revealed the foundations of a 5th-century building. The arrival of civilization in this area likely coincided with the construction of irrigation canals—one of which still runs near the fortress today.

The fortress itself dates back to the early 5th century. Local legends associate it with King Trdat (reigned 395–406), who is said to have ordered the construction of both the canal and the fortress. It’s difficult to trace the exact outcome of these early developments, however, since just a few years later, the Georgian kingdom temporarily ceased to exist under pressure from the Persian invasion.

King Vakhtang Gorgasali later established an episcopal seat here, transforming Rustavi into the administrative center of the region known as Kukheti. Until the 12th century, Kukheti referred to the entire area stretching from the Kura River to the Gombori Range.

In 736, the city was set ablaze by Marwan the Deaf, yet it survived. It endured another burning during the Seljuk invasions—and again, it survived. Rustavi experienced a brief flourishing during Georgia’s Golden Age, but successive Khazar and Mongol raids eventually wore the city down. By the post-Mongol era, Rustavi had lost its prominence, reduced to a modest settlement with little political or economic weight.

Rustavi is divided in two by the Kura River. Historically, the left bank developed earlier and now stands as a sort of open-air monument to the Soviet era, with buildings still bearing the imposing aesthetic of Stalinist architecture. The right bank was developed later and features more modern residential buildings. Visitors to Rustavi typically find themselves venturing into the city’s southeastern outskirts, where much of the early medieval architectural heritage still survives.

It is on the left bank that the ruins of the ancient city of Bostan-Kalaki are located. Excavations have uncovered remnants of city walls and foundations of ancient buildings. During the 4th and 5th centuries AD, a fortress, a temple, and an irrigation canal fed by the Kura were constructed on this site. The city prospered between the 12th and 13th centuries before succumbing to devastating Mongol invasions, which led to its eventual disappearance.

The highest point in Rustavi lies at an elevation of 762 meters and can be reached by ascending a remarkable structure engineered by Georgian architects—the Rustavi Cross. No special equipment is needed for the climb, which takes around 40 to 50 minutes and is manageable for any healthy adult. At the summit, you’re rewarded with panoramic views of the Yagluja Ridge, the expansive plains that surround the city, and the serene, sweeping beauty of the Georgian landscape.

Just a few dozen kilometers from Rustavi lies one of Georgia’s most important monastic complexes—David Gareji. Nestled in the arid hills near the border with Azerbaijan, this cluster of rock-hewn monasteries is a spiritual and historical treasure well worth the detour.

Rustavi is located just 25 kilometers from Tbilisi, making it easily accessible for a day trip. The most convenient way to reach the city is by marshrutka (minibus), which departs regularly from Didube Metro Station. These minibuses can also be hailed along the route—they travel through the entire capital, first along the embankment, then via Gorgasali Street, and finally passing through Ortachala Bus Station. The journey typically takes 20 to 30 minutes, and the frequent schedule means there’s no need to arrive at a specific time.

For those traveling from Rustavi back to Tbilisi, marshrutkas are best caught from Kostava Avenue—either near the bridge or at the city’s edge.