Svaneti

Svaneti is a land like no other—a region every traveler should visit to discover a different Georgia, one that is not simply cheerful and sun-drenched, but wild, solemn, and deeply majestic. Though the famed Caucasian hospitality remains alive and well here—with guests still welcomed warmly and traditions held sacred—Svaneti offers a rare, untamed glimpse into Georgia’s ancient soul. Tucked away in the northwestern highlands, this mountain-bound province has long been a haven for climbers, trekkers, and nature lovers drawn by its dramatic landscapes and enduring spirit. Wherever you go, you are followed by the silent gaze of the Svan towers—stone sentinels that have watched over the land for centuries, rising among fields, lakes, and craggy slopes like the solemn witnesses of time.

Svaneti is home to the Svans, an ethnic minority with their own language, customs, and ancient worldview. This region, often dubbed the Land of a Thousand Towers, owes much of its renown to these iconic defensive structures that still dominate the scenery. Yet it is also the raw and overwhelming beauty of the Caucasus Mountains that keeps drawing people year-round—from those chasing adventure to those simply seeking silence and awe.

This rugged mountain refuge harbors some of the oldest settlements in the Caucasus. In ancient times, Georgians from the lowlands would send their sacred icons, rare manuscripts, and priceless treasures to the Svan towers and mountaintop chapels, trusting their protection in times of invasion. Over time, Svaneti became a natural repository of early Georgian culture. As far back as the 1st century BC, the Greek geographer Strabo recorded an arresting portrait of the Svans:

“The Svans perhaps surpass all other tribes in strength and valor. Masters of their surrounding country, they inhabit the highest peaks of the Caucasus above Dioscurias. They have a king and a council of three hundred. It is said they can raise an army of two hundred thousand, as every man among them is a warrior… In their land, mountain torrents carry down grains of gold, which the natives collect with fleeces placed in troughs—a tale that gave birth to the legend of the Golden Fleece. Their arrows are tipped with a fearsome poison, said to cause pain even from the scent alone.”
— Strabo, Geography, Book XI, 2.19

Thankfully, the days of poisoned arrows are long gone. The Svans now welcome guests with peace and pride. Yet their fierce independence and cultural strength remain etched in every stone tower, carved lintel, and lingering tradition. Their identity is deeply entwined with the mountains—and with the unique blend of pagan mysticism and Orthodox Christianity that still informs local rituals.

The region is divided into Upper (Zemo) and Lower (Kvemo) Svaneti. It boasts four of the ten highest peaks in the Greater Caucasus, including Georgia’s tallest—Mount Shkhara (5,200 meters) and Mount Janga (5,078 meters). Nearby, the twin summits of Mount Ushba and the glistening slopes of Mount Tetnuldi cut a magnificent silhouette against the sky, drawing alpine skiers and daring mountaineers to an unforgettable mountain holiday.

If you’re debating whether to include Svaneti in your Georgian journey, let a local saying guide you: “If you haven’t been to Svaneti, you haven’t seen Georgia.”

Svaneti welcomes travelers year-round. In summer, it is a paradise for hikers, horseback riders, and cyclists who follow paths through ancient forests, crystal-clear rivers, and turquoise alpine lakes. In winter, the region transforms into a snow-covered fairytale, its medieval towers cloaked in white, the peaks dazzling in the sun—an idyllic setting for skiing, snowshoeing, or simply soaking in the mountain majesty.

The main hub of the region is the town of Mestia, perched at 1,400 meters above sea level and home to roughly 2,700 people. Mestia is the jumping-off point for most excursions into the highlands: to glaciers, waterfalls, and hidden lakes. In the town square, a small park awaits, centered around a bubbling spring of narzan—natural mineral water enriched with effervescent volcanic gases.

Mestia is also the launchpad for hikes to the Koruldi Lakes, Chaladi Glacier, and the legendary village of Ushguli, the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe. The town itself boasts several preserved Svan towers, and from here, you can take a scenic cable car ride up Mount Zuruldi for breathtaking panoramas.

As you journey from village to village in Svaneti, you’ll notice that nearly every household seems to have its own tower—these are the legendary Svan towers, included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Erected between the 8th and 13th centuries, their purpose remains a topic of scholarly debate to this day.

Built communally by villages, the towers rest on stone-reinforced foundations. Entryways were constructed well above ground level: a large flat stone was placed atop two others to form a makeshift platform for a removable ladder. In times of attack, the entire family would climb up into the tower, pull the ladder inside, and seal the door. Within, another lightweight wooden stair allowed them to retreat to the upper levels. Still, it’s worth noting—there weren’t many who dared try to steal from the Svans. Reaching these highland villages was nearly impossible in itself.

The towers stood beside stone houses built from the same massive river-worn boulders. Incredibly, some of these centuries-old dwellings are still inhabited today.

1. Visit the Museum of History and Ethnography
In times of civil strife, when Georgia was fractured by internal wars, the most precious treasures of the land were hidden in the remote mountains of Svaneti. The region’s rugged and nearly inaccessible terrain served as a natural vault — one that invaders rarely dared to breach. Today, these cultural riches are preserved in the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography in Mestia. Its remarkable collection includes everything from ancient musical instruments and finely crafted weaponry to religious icons and crosses. One of the museum’s crowning jewels is an exceptionally rare Gospel manuscript, written on parchment — among the oldest of its kind in the world.

2. Listen to the Songs of Svaneti
The music of Svaneti is unlike anything you’ll hear elsewhere in Georgia. Even in summer, you’d be hard-pressed to find such masterful ensembles performing in Tbilisi or Batumi. Come evening, the cafés and bars lining Mestia’s main street swell with visitors, and soon the air is filled with the haunting beauty of traditional polyphonic singing. If you’re lucky, you might also witness a spontaneous dance — Georgians are passionate about their expressive, soul-stirring choreography. For an especially memorable night, visit Café Seti on the central square or arrange a private performance by the local folk group “Riho.”

3. Stroll Through the Lanchvali District
One of Mestia’s oldest quarters, Lanchvali has recently been lovingly restored. Walking through its winding alleys offers a glimpse into the architectural traditions of the region. You can step inside an authentic Svan house, climb a watchtower for a bird’s-eye view of the neighborhood, and capture stunning photos from above. End your exploration with a hearty meal at the Old House restaurant — a place that blends heritage with hospitality.

4. Take a Day Trip to Becho
From the village of Becho, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of Mount Ushba — often dubbed the “Caucasian Matterhorn” by 19th-century explorers. Though only the southern summit is visible from here, the view is utterly rewarding. There are options for every level of adventure. For a light excursion, hike to the Ushba Waterfall or explore the abandoned village of Guli, where another mesmerizing vista of the mountain awaits. If you’re up for a physical challenge, trekking routes to the Ushba Glacier or the “Guli Overnight” camps involve elevation gains of 1400–1700 meters. And for those seeking the ultimate Svan experience, crossing the Guli Pass into Mestia — a 20-kilometer route with a 1500-meter elevation difference — is a journey through some of the region’s most dramatic landscapes, culminating in a panoramic descent into a “forest” of ancient Svan towers.

5. Visit the Most Beautiful Village in Svaneti — Lakhiri
Lakhiri is a hidden gem, untouched by mass tourism. On a tiny patch of land, the village preserves 14 medieval defensive towers — one in nearly every yard. Wandering here, you’ll feel the spirit of a time long past. For another off-the-beaten-path adventure, consider hiking from Iprali to the deserted village of Khalde. Abandoned in the 1990s, Khalde sits beneath the Main Caucasus Range and commands awe-inspiring views of Mount Shota Rustaveli.

Take the cable car to the Zuruldi Restaurant — perched on a mountain slope with sweeping views and famed for its delicious kubdari, a local meat-filled pastry. From here, Ushba reveals a new face — seen from a different angle and no less majestic.

Seek out ancient frescoes from the 12th century, painted by the local artist Theodore, which survive inside churches scattered across the villages of Ipari, Iprali, and Kala. Don’t miss the renowned Lagurka Church in Kala, built in honor of Saints Kvirike and Ivlita. Its interior walls, too, are adorned with Theodore’s timeless brushwork.

Make your way to Ushguli — the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Georgia, perched at 2200 meters above sea level. It’s the crown jewel of every tour in Svaneti, with most guidebooks proudly displaying its image on their covers. The village is as beautiful as its reputation suggests, particularly from a distance, where its towers rise like sentinels beneath the looming presence of Mount Shkhara — Georgia’s highest peak and the tallest of the Greater Caucasus range. Ushguli is stark, authentic, and unforgettable. Even its towers, built from dark stone, seem tougher — shaped by the elements.

While here, explore the Chazhashi quarter, a fortified complex of towers recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Visit the Museum of Svan Life — a preserved home displaying everyday items and heirlooms. Though access to the functioning monastery is restricted, visitors may enter the adjacent church, and with luck, attend a service.

At the far end of the dirt road lies a scenic trail that winds along the foot of Eastern Shkhara to Lake Nuam-Kuam. For experienced hikers, a return journey over the Lamaria Ridge offers a thrilling challenge, but this should only be attempted with a guide — the terrain is treacherous and easy to get lost in.

Like the rest of Georgia, Svaneti boasts a rich culinary tradition. Chief among its delicacies is kubdari — a meat-filled bread similar to khachapuri, but with minced pork, aromatic herbs, and a special local seasoning known as “Svanetian salt,” a flavorful blend of eight ingredients. The pie is baked without oil and is a festive staple, though many locals enjoy it year-round.

Other must-try dishes include chizhvari — cheese and cornmeal dumplings; shusha — mashed potatoes with cheese; khachapuri with either cheese or fresh herbs; and lobio — a hearty bean stew. Local cheese is exclusively sulguni, prized for its texture and taste. For the more adventurous, Svaneti also offers ziskhora, a traditional blood sausage.

As a final touch, try a slice of curd cheese drizzled with fragrant, medicinal Svanetian honey — a dessert that lingers in memory.

Due to the region’s harsh climate, grape cultivation is impossible here, so don’t expect to find local wine — it’s all imported. Instead, the dominant spirits are chacha and natkhani, powerful homemade liquors distilled twice to a potent 50 degrees. Nearly every mountain household crafts its own batch, making it the true drink of Svaneti.

Svaneti is a destination for all seasons, a place that welcomes travelers year-round with its dramatic landscapes and distinct moods. While each season casts its own unique charm, summer undoubtedly draws the largest number of visitors. In fact, Svaneti has become Georgia’s second most popular travel destination, trailing only behind Batumi. If you’re planning a summer trip, it’s wise to book a guide in advance—someone who can tailor an itinerary to suit your interests and help you explore the region’s many treasures.

One of the most mesmerizing times to visit is during the golden autumn, which typically begins in the third week of September. This vibrant season descends into Mestia from the high-mountain village of Ushguli, flowing gently down the gorge. It is hard to imagine a more perfect time to travel: the sweltering summer heat has faded, yet the warmth still lingers. It’s an ideal period for mountain trekking—tourist crowds thin out, the trails become quieter, and the serenity of the highlands takes center stage. Photographers will find paradise in the golden leaves glowing under the autumn sun and the stoic Svan towers silhouetted against the twilight sky.

The shoulder season, which arrives in November, appeals to travelers with a taste for the unconventional. This is a rare opportunity to witness the raw, untouristed soul of Svaneti—especially if you venture out to remote villages and centuries-old churches. With the summer rush gone, locals are more relaxed, welcoming, and eager to share stories of their land and lives. Nature surprises with stark contrasts: what falls as rain in the valleys appears as the first fresh snowfall in the mountains. You wake to a breathtaking morning where snowy white peaks rise above woodlands tinged with the last hues of fall, all beneath a brilliant blue sky.

Winter transforms Svaneti into a haven for skiers. Two ski resorts equipped with modern lifts and impeccably maintained slopes await those eager to carve through fresh powder. Ski touring enthusiasts from across the globe flock here in search of pristine wilderness—something increasingly rare in Europe. Comfort doesn’t take a backseat: after an active day, visitors can retreat to cozy hotels and indulge in hearty dishes made from local ingredients. For the adventurous and mountain-obsessed, there is heliskiing—a premium and exotic experience that pairs untouched slopes with some of the most jaw-dropping views imaginable.

But even those who don’t ski or engage in winter sports will find plenty to savor. New Year, Christmas, or simply a week or two spent in this fairytale setting will leave a lasting impression, filled with emotion and originality. Whether you’re exploring nearby villages, immersing yourself in the traditions and artistry of Svan culture, or simply marveling at the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus, winter in Svaneti holds just as much magic as summer. And once you’ve seen the ancient Svan towers blanketed in snow, you’ll be longing to return.

As winter melts into early spring, the skiing season continues until mid-April. The transition period is brief, and by May holidays, trekking, eco-tours, and ethnographic excursions are once again in full swing. Apple trees burst into frothy white blossoms, and within a single day—should you venture from the valley into the heights—you can travel from the warmth of spring straight into winter’s embrace.

Most journeys into Svaneti begin in Mestia, the region’s heart and capital. There are several ways to get there from Tbilisi. One of the most scenic and time-efficient options is flying with Vanilla Sky, a local airline operating small planes (accommodating 15–17 passengers) from Natakhtari Airport near Tbilisi to Mestia. Flights are available daily except Wednesdays and Saturdays, with a baggage limit of 15 kg per person. However, flights operate only in good weather and are frequently canceled, so it’s essential to have an alternative travel plan in place.

Marshrutkas (minibuses) also connect Tbilisi to Mestia, departing daily from Didube Metro Station. The fare is approximately 35 GEL, and the journey takes around nine hours. A more comfortable and scenic alternative is to take the night train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, followed by a marshrutka to Mestia. Train tickets cost 20 GEL for a private compartment and 10 GEL for a shared carriage. The train departs Tbilisi at 9:00 PM and arrives in Zugdidi at 6:30 AM. From there, marshrutkas leave from the bus station adjacent to the railway terminal, covering the 140 km to Mestia for around 25 GEL.

Daytime express trains to Zugdidi are also available, but they arrive late in the evening, making it difficult to catch a connecting marshrutka the same day. (Note: All prices listed are current as of July 2021.)