Lake Balkhash: The Enigmatic Jewel of Kazakhstan

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Lake Balkhash: The Enigmatic Jewel of Kazakhstan

Balkhash Lake

Lake Balkhash is a true gem of Kazakhstan, recognized as the largest endorheic body of water in the country and the second-largest non-drying water basin in the world, surpassed only by the Caspian Sea. This unique lake is notable for its striking contrast: the western part is filled with fresh water, while the eastern section is dominated by salty water that has a distinctly marine taste. A narrow strait and a peninsula located in the middle of the lake prevent the waters from mixing.

Situated in the southeastern part of the republic, Lake Balkhash is nestled within the Balkhash-Alakol Basin, approximately 400 kilometers from the city of Karaganda. The lake is bordered by four regions of Kazakhstan: Almaty, Zhambyl, Zhetysu, and Karaganda. Its shape resembles an elongated crescent, narrowing in the middle where the small Uzynaral strait and the Saryesik peninsula are located. The shoreline of Lake Balkhash stretches nearly 2,400 kilometers, with the lake itself extending 605 kilometers in length and varying in width from 9 to 34 kilometers. The maximum depth of the lake reaches 26.5 meters, and its total area exceeds 18,000 square kilometers.

Map of the Lake Balkhash drainage basin showing the Ili River and its tributaries

The northern shores of the lake are characterized by high, rocky cliffs, while the southern banks are much lower and covered with dense reed beds. The winding coastline is rich with bays and inlets, and there are several islands within the lake, the largest of which are Basaral and Tasaral.

The primary source of water for the lake is the Ili River, which originates from the glaciers of the Tian Shan mountains and flows into the western part of the lake. On the eastern side, several smaller rivers, including Karatal, Aksu, and Lepse, also feed into the Balkhash basin. The lake has no outflows, and its water level can fluctuate significantly depending on the snow thickness in the mountains and the rate of evaporation from the surface.

Lake Balkhash is classified as a semi-freshwater body; its western part contains relatively fresh and murky water with a yellow-gray hue, which is actively used for drinking and industrial purposes. In contrast, the eastern section is saltier and clearer, exhibiting a stunning emerald-blue color.

Origin and History

The history of Lake Balkhash spans thousands of years. It is first mentioned in ancient chronicles from China and Kazakhstan. The lake is situated in the deepest part of the Balkhash-Alakol Basin, which formed as a result of the tectonic subsidence of the Turan Plate, later filled with river sediments.

In addition to the basin, the system of faults in the Dzhungar Alatau includes the lakes Sassykkol, Alakol, and Ebi-Nur, which also emerged from the ancient Khankhai Sea that once inundated the entire depression. Approximately 30,000 to 35,000 years ago, this sea completely vanished from the Earth’s surface, leaving behind several lakes, including Balkhash.

The lake was known to the Chinese as “Xi-hai,” or “Western Sea,” a name that appeared in a geographical atlas from 1855. At that time, the Kalmyks and Dzhungars referred to the body of water as “Balkhash-Nor,” while eastern ethnic groups, such as the Turks and Mongols, who classified all geographic features west of their territory as “white,” named the lake “Ak-Dengiz,” meaning “White Sea.”

The Legend of Lake Balkhash

A beautiful legend surrounds Lake Balkhash, cherished and passed down by the local population through generations.

Many centuries ago, a powerful khan named Balkhash ruled this land. He was incredibly wealthy and known as a great sorcerer, yet he never experienced the simple joys of fatherhood, perhaps due to his cruelty and arrogance, as he rarely showed compassion for others. After a particularly brutal act against the poor, the khan encountered a small girl who was crying and reaching out to her executioner, sitting amidst her slain parents. Something stirred within him, and he took the girl, named her Ili, and raised her as his own daughter.

Years passed, and the girl grew into a beautiful young woman. The khan surrounded her with luxury and love, but when it came time for her to marry, he refused to allow her to wed the poor peasant Karatal, whom she loved dearly. A horse racing contest was arranged, with the winner granted the hand of Ili. Karatal emerged victorious, but the khan, having no intention of honoring his promise, ordered the young man to be killed. In a desperate act, Karatal stole Ili away, and they fled together. In a fit of rage, the khan cast a wicked spell upon them, transforming them into two rivers that flowed apart, while he himself became the lake that lay between them, ensuring that the rivers would never reunite.

Unable to bear the separation from her beloved, Ili sought the help of the goddess Tethys. The goddess, moved by her plight, created a narrow isthmus to allow the lovers to meet. However, in exchange for this assistance, Ili was required to shed all the tears she had cried for her beloved. Thus, the western part of the lake became the salty section, symbolizing Ili’s tears, while Karatal transformed into the fresh waters of the eastern part.

Geographical Features and Climate

The area surrounding Lake Balkhash is characterized by a desert climate. In July, the air temperature can soar to +30ºC, while January averages around −9ºC. The annual precipitation is relatively low, averaging around 131 mm, and humidity levels typically hover between 55% and 60%.

Wind speeds can reach up to 4.8 m/s, with northern winds prevailing in the western part of the lake, while northeastern winds dominate the eastern side. During windy conditions, the lake can experience significant turbulence, with wave heights exceeding 3.5 meters. Additionally, a clockwise whirlpool forms in the western part of the lake. The region enjoys approximately 130 sunny days each year.

Lake Balkhash is known for its warm waters, with winter temperatures dropping to 0ºC and summer temperatures rising to +28ºC. As winter approaches, the lake freezes over, with the ice cover lasting from November to April; notably, the eastern part of the lake thaws approximately 15 days later than the western side.

Visitors to the lake are greeted by stunning nature and a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The shores are lined with tugai forests, home to species such as turanga and willow, as well as various types of reeds and bulrush. Underwater, one can find a plethora of aquatic plants, including whorled and spike rush, common bladderwort, and numerous phytoplankton species.

Until the end of the last century, the lake’s fauna was quite rich. However, the diversity has declined due to deteriorating water quality. The lakebed is home to mollusks, larvae of various crustaceans, and small insects. The lush reed beds in the southern part of the lake once provided excellent habitats for small animals and birds. Unfortunately, human activities, including pesticide use, livestock grazing, and reed cutting, have significantly diminished the biodiversity of the basin. Twenty-two species of vertebrates are now listed in the Red Book of the Republic. Not long ago, the region was home to the Turanian tiger, which preyed on local wild boars, while the North American nutria was introduced and has since established itself in the area. However, hunting of this species has ceased entirely.

Lake Balkhash is inhabited by a variety of birds, including cormorants, pheasants, golden eagles, teal, and white herons. Endangered species such as the pink and curly pelicans, white-tailed sea eagle, and whooper swan also make their home here.

How to Get There

There are several ways to reach Lake Balkhash using different modes of transportation.

By Bus:
From Astana and Karaganda, you can take a bus to the city of Balkhash. Buses depart from the central bus station in Karaganda three times a day, passing through Balkhash, Priozersk, and Saryshagan. The journey takes approximately 7 hours to Balkhash and an additional 2.5 hours to Saryshagan. From Balkhash, buses are available to the villages of Chubar-Tubek and Toraganlyk.

By Train:
The nearest railway stations to the lake are Balkhash-1 and Balkhash-2. Trains run from Astana, taking about a day to reach their destination. A train departs daily from Karaganda, with the journey to Balkhash taking no more than 8 hours.

By Plane:
Regular flights operate between Karaganda and Balkhash, provided by the airline Zhezkazgan Air, with three flights per week. You can also fly from Astana to Karaganda.

By Car:
The main route to the lake is the M36 highway. The largest city along the way is Karaganda. From Astana, the drive takes about 5 hours.

Where to Stay

In the villages near the lake—Torangylyk, Rembaza, Shubartubek, Lepse, and Chubar-Tubek—there are numerous tourist bases and guesthouses offering accommodations of varying comfort levels.

In Shubartubek, the “Doszhan” hotel offers cozy rooms equipped with all necessary amenities and high-quality service. For a more luxurious stay, consider the Riva Lepsy complex located in Lepse, which provides comfortable rooms, three meals a day, wellness treatments, massages, and a variety of entertainment options.

In Priozersk, the “Balkhash” sanatorium attracts tourists seeking health benefits. Local residents are always eager to provide accommodations for visitors. In the nearby villages and settlements, you can find various lodging options at affordable prices, catering to different levels of comfort.

When to Visit and Duration of Stay

The swimming season at Lake Balkhash typically runs from June to September, with mid-summer being the ideal time for a visit when the water temperature can reach a warm +28ºC. As autumn approaches, the focus shifts to hunting for game and birds, while winter attracts enthusiasts of ice fishing.

For a fulfilling experience, a stay of at least three to five days is recommended. This allows ample time to explore the lake’s diverse landscapes, engage in recreational activities, and immerse yourself in the local culture and natural beauty. Whether you’re interested in swimming, fishing, hiking, or simply relaxing by the water’s edge, Lake Balkhash offers a unique escape into the heart of Kazakhstan’s wilderness.