Papaha

Despite the searing 40-degree heat, Turkmen elders, known as aksakals, continue to don their large, shaggy fur hats, captivating foreign visitors with this distinctive headwear. Created centuries ago by the Turkmen, this unique headdress is not merely for show; it is ingeniously designed to provide relief from the intense heat.

Turkmen attire has long been adapted to the harsh conditions of open-air living under the sun. The practicality of these headdresses is rooted in the nomadic lifestyle of the Turkmen, who traversed vast desert expanses. Thus, the fur papakha, or «tel’pek,» was born. Despite its seemingly cumbersome appearance, this hat is relatively lightweight and creates a microclimate underneath it, offering protection from both summer heat and winter cold.

The «tel’pek» is a central element of traditional Turkmen men’s clothing. It represents not only a man’s physical stature but also embodies pride and dignity, contributing to a distinguished posture and graceful movements. As the saying goes in Turkmenistan, «A hat is not worn for warmth but for honor. If you find yourself alone, converse with your papakha.»

Turkmen people take immense pride in their headdresses, treating them with great care. Historically, they were covered with a kerchief to maintain their shape and prevent deformation. Special dummies made from mulberry wood were used to preserve the fur’s alignment and the hat’s form.

Historically, papakhas came in various types: ceremonial, elegant, and casual, each suited to different occasions and individuals, including young Dzhigits, elderly men, and older gentlemen. They were crafted from a range of luxurious materials, such as grey or golden astrakhan fur, and the fine pelts of martens, foxes, and muskrats. Long-haired versions were made from the hides of rams with silky, curly wool or Angora goats, both of which were highly prized and expensive. For special occasions, the finest curly lamb fur was used, while black astrakhan fur, known for its superior quality, signified high status. In the past, a high-quality astrakhan hat could cost as much as a camel or a cow with a calf.

Typically worn over a small Turkmen skull cap called a takhya, papakhas varied greatly in size, from modest to grandiose. Wealthy and noble Turkmen of ancient times sported papakhas nearly half a meter tall. Each hat was quilted and durable enough to withstand sword strikes, making them ideal for military campaigns and horseback riding.

Traditionally, the craft of making papakhas was a male-dominated profession, passed down through generations. Skilled hat makers were highly respected within their communities. Today, the art of creating «tel’peks» remains vibrant in Turkmenistan. Modern artisans offer a diverse range of hats to meet various tastes and needs. Among the most coveted are the elaborate, up to 30 cm tall, highly shaggy papakhas with long, silky hair, worn for special occasions. Middle-aged and older men often prefer black and brown furs with silver streaks, while younger men favor white tel’peks.

These beautiful, lightweight, and distinguished Turkmen «tel’peks» are now popular in tourist and souvenir markets, continuing to enchant visitors with their elegance and practicality.