Silks

Turkmenistan is renowned as the birthplace of a distinctive silk fabric known as «keteni.» For centuries, the people of Turkmenistan have excelled in sericulture, and their handwoven fabrics have been celebrated for their exceptional durability, vivid colors, and intricate patterns. The defining characteristic of «keteni» lies in its vibrant hues, which are determined by the quality of the dyes used. Historically, these fabrics were dyed using only natural vegetable-based dyes, renowned for their brilliance, durability, and environmental safety.

One of the most prominent colors used in «keteni» is red, which holds significant cultural importance in Turkmen society. According to traditional beliefs, red is imbued with magical properties that protect against malevolent forces. Additionally, this color is associated with beauty and joy, and it has always been particularly favored by women and children.

Turkmen carpet weavers also utilized red dye derived from the madder plant, which thrived in saline soils where other plants could not grow. To achieve shades of dark blue and blue, they employed indigo. Other natural dyes included dried pomegranate skins, onion peels, and tea, each contributing to the rich palette of colors in their textiles.

To enhance the fabric’s durability, artisans treated «keteni» with alum, while potash and coal ash were used for bleaching. The fabric was then processed, starched, and polished to a high sheen, giving it an almost celestial radiance and a sense of opulence.

Both men and women have worn garments made from «keteni.» Men’s fashion typically featured shirts, while women enjoyed a diverse array of dresses and scarves. Notably, «keteni» continues to be a traditional choice for bridal attire.

Despite the passage of time, the crafting of «keteni» remains a cherished cottage industry. The production process is labor-intensive, requiring great skill and dedication. Today, Turkmen artisans still use ancient weaving looms known as «tara,» which have been employed for generations. This traditional craftsmanship ensures that each piece of «keteni» retains the high quality and exquisite decorative detail that has long been admired.