Merv

Central Asia is home to many ancient cities that are over 2,000 years old. Some of these cities continue to thrive today, while others have been abandoned and turned to ruins. Among the latter, one stands out as perhaps the oldest and most significant—Merv. Once the largest city not only in Central Asia but in the world, the exact time of its founding remains uncertain. However, references to Merv can be found in the Avesta, the sacred Zoroastrian text dating back to the 8th-6th centuries BCE. Moreover, Merv has yielded remnants of religious sites belonging to Zoroastrians, Muslims, Buddhists, and Christians alike.

Merv’s history stretches back 4,000 years when the first human settlements appeared along the banks of the Murgab River. The precise date when these settlements evolved into a city remains unknown, but historians generally mark its beginnings in the 6th century BCE. Initially, the city was known as Maru or Margu, later evolving into variations such as Margiana and Margush. As the centuries passed, Merv grew into a major hub where trade routes converged from present-day Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran, India, and beyond. The city’s early inhabitants were Zoroastrians, followed by Buddhists, with Christians arriving in the 3rd century CE. However, the 7th and 8th centuries saw the arrival of Muslims, who established the dominant religion. The 8th-century Beni Makhan Mosque in Merv is likely one of the earliest mosques in Central Asia.

The arrival of the Arabs spurred Merv’s development, bringing with it libraries, educational institutions, and a significant influx of migrants from neighboring lands. Over several centuries, Merv flourished, reaching its zenith in the early 12th century when it was recognized as the largest city in the world. A testament to its former glory is the magnificent mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, construction of which began in 1157.

However, after centuries of prosperity, Merv faced a period of devastation. In 1141, the city was plundered by the Khwarazmians, who eventually took full control. In 1221, Merv and its irrigation system were completely destroyed by the Mongols. When they demolished the dams on the Murgab River, the city ceased to exist. Two centuries later, the Timurids revived Merv and its irrigation, but it never regained its former grandeur. By the late 18th century, Merv was once again in ruins and was never rebuilt. Later, in the late 19th century, a new city, Mary, emerged about 30 kilometers to the west.

Today, much of ancient Merv is a landscape of desert and fields, where remnants of the city’s fortifications stretch for kilometers. Many of these walls have been so severely eroded by time, water, and wind that they now resemble long mounds of earth. Within the complex, a few buildings remain, some of which have undergone restoration. The most imposing structure in Merv is the 38-meter-tall mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar.

Merv is home to several fortresses, each belonging to different eras, varying in size and preservation:

• Erk-Kala (6th century BCE)
• Gyaur-Kala (3rd century CE)
• Kyz-Kala (6th century CE)
• Sultan-Kala (11th century CE)
• Abdullah-Khan-Kala (15th century CE)
• Bayram-Ali-Khan-Kala (likely 18th century CE)

In 1999, Ancient Merv was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, paved roads for tourist transportation crisscross the site, and restoration of certain structures is ongoing. Visitors can also see grazing camels within the area. Additionally, the Yusuf Hamadani Mosque, still in use, attracts pilgrims from across Turkmenistan.

A tour of Merv is a must for history enthusiasts and explorers of the Great Silk Road. The sheer scale of the ruins of this ancient city is sure to leave a lasting impression on anyone who visits!