For millennia, the art of jewelry-making has been a cherished tradition in Uzbekistan, passed down through generations of skilled artisans. Jewelry-making is one of the oldest crafts known to humanity, and Uzbekistan’s contribution to this art form is both ancient and profound. The earliest pieces discovered in the region date back to the 17th century BC, predating the famed cities of Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent.
The earliest examples of Uzbek jewelry were unearthed near the Chirchik river’s source, where bronze bracelets bearing cosmological spirals were found. The Amu Darya treasure, a collection of Bactrian jeweler’s works from the fifth century BC, and the Dalverzintepa treasure from the Surkhandarya region, with its 32 kilos of gold and silver gem-inlaid jewelry, are testaments to the region’s rich history in the craft.
In ancient times, jewelry served not just as adornment but also as a protective talisman, believed to shield its wearer from illness, poison, and misfortune. Silver, known as a symbol of purity, and gems like cornelian, turquoise, and pearl were attributed with magical properties, offering health, happiness, and protection.
Uzbek jewelers traditionally operated within family units, with secrets of the trade handed down from father to son. Their workshops were modest, equipped with a clay furnace for smelting metal, an anvil, and a small set of tools necessary for jewelry-making. These artisans mastered various techniques, including smelting, casting, forging, engraving, embossing, niello, openwork, and enamel.
Silver has always been the preferred metal among Uzbek jewelers, used extensively in women’s jewelry, arm ornaments, clothing, and housewares. Gems were polished rather than cut, giving them a distinctive rounded appearance. Gold, though less common, was primarily used by Bukhara’s artisans, thanks to the nearby gold mines in the Zarafshan valley.
The 19th and 20th centuries marked the golden age of Uzbek jewelry art, with local «zargar» (jewelers) embellishing everything from arm filigree to horse bridles and silverware. This era also saw the introduction of foreign artistic influences, as jewelers from India, Persia, the Caucasus, and other regions brought their styles to Uzbekistan. However, the influx of cheaper, mass-produced Russian gold jewelry eventually challenged the local artisans’ work.
Despite the decline in demand during the 20th century, the tradition of Uzbek jewelry-making has experienced a revival. Today, jewelry shops proudly display gold and silver pieces crafted in the classic Uzbek style. Artisans have formed craft centers, and their creations are showcased at specialized jewelry exhibitions, garnering increasing interest both domestically and internationally. The art of Uzbek jewelry-making stands as a rich and unique cultural heritage, now experiencing a renaissance, preserving the knowledge and secrets of a craft that has endured for centuries.
Tours in Uzbekistan
