Gold embroidery, the art of stitching with gold and silver threads, has been a prestigious form of needlework since the Middle Ages. While it was practiced in various parts of the world, Uzbekistan’s distinctive techniques and national patterns have rendered its golden-embroidered products as unique treasures for visitors.
Unlike other embroidery forms, gold embroidery requires meticulous skill, as the precious threads must be laid smoothly atop the fabric without wearing away the gold. This painstaking process, often spanning years, results in hand-made creations that are highly valued and significantly pricier than their machine-made counterparts.
Embroidery artisans refer to their thread as «kalebatun,» with «tillo» denoting gold and «safid» for silver. In bygone days, threads were gilded to achieve their luster, but such threads are rare today due to their costliness.
Velvet serves as the primary canvas for Uzbek gold embroidery, its rich hues enhancing the lustrous stitches and complex patterns. The most favored embroidery techniques include gulduzi, the stitching of colors, and zaminduzi, a solid satin stitch.
Gold embroidery has flourished across Uzbekistan, with notable development in Nurata, Shakhrisabz, Samarkand, Jizzak, Tashkent, Fergana, and Pskent. However, it reached its zenith in mid-19th century Bukhara, within the Emir’s palace workshops, where skilled artisans adorned the garments of royalty and courtiers. Bukhara’s gold embroidery remains renowned to this day.
Historically the domain of men, gold embroidery has transitioned predominantly to women artisans. The craft is executed on a special wooden hoop, maintaining the integrity of this age-old practice.
Gold embroidery has traditionally embellished caftans, dresses, turbans, skullcaps, shalwar, and shoes. The exquisite Bukhara gold-embroidered caftans, or zarchapans, were once royal gifts and continue to be bestowed on special occasions like weddings.
Today, the Bukhara gold embroidery factory produces these items on a large scale, fulfilling orders for grandiose curtains and thematic panels. Additionally, private artisans in Bukhara and its region cater to both general and bespoke requests. A gold-embroidered chapan or skullcap remains a cherished gift from Uzbekistan, carrying the warmth of its golden heritage to loved ones.
Tours in Uzbekistan
