Kukeldash Madrasah

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Kukeldash Madrasah

Kukeldash Madrasah in Tashkent, located near Chorsu Bazaar
Kukeldash Madrasah in Tashkent, located near Chorsu Bazaar

Located near the bustling Chorsu Bazaar in the Old City of Tashkent, the Kukeldash Madrasah stands as a historical beacon, its legacy woven into the very fabric of Uzbekistan’s capital. This institution, dating back to the 16th century, is a testament to the city’s rich past and its enduring cultural significance.

Constructed in 1570 under the auspices of the Shaybanid Dynasty, the madrasah owes its inception to the vizier Dervish Khan. Known affectionately as «Kukeldash,» which translates to «the khan’s milk brother,» Dervish Khan’s close ties to the ruler are immortalized in the name of this educational edifice. Adorned with sky-blue majolica, the madrasah’s intricate décor once rivaled the grandeur of Samarkand and Bukhara’s most exquisite structures.

Originally serving as the centerpiece of Tashkent’s Registan— the city’s main square—Kukeldash Madrasah was envisioned as a hub for religious scholarship. However, the sands of time saw it repurposed as a caravanserai in the 17th century, providing respite for weary merchants. The subsequent neglect led to the collapse of the twin towers that once graced its entrance.

The 19th century brought further tribulations as the madrasah became a stronghold for the Kokand Khans amidst civil unrest and invasions. It was during this tumultuous period that the madrasah’s entrance served as a grim stage for public executions. The structure’s decline was exacerbated by earthquakes and economic strife, leaving it in dire need of restoration.

Soviet rule introduced a new chapter for Kukeldash Madrasah, transforming it into a venue for atheistic exhibitions—a stark contrast to its spiritual origins. Later, it housed the Museum of National Instruments of Uzbekistan. It wasn’t until Uzbekistan’s independence that the madrasah received the attention it deserved, leading to a comprehensive restoration effort.

The restoration drew inspiration from 1880s photographs, revealing a spacious courtyard surrounded by two-story hujras—student cells that connected to classrooms, a mosque, and open halls. One such hall bore the poignant inscription, «Death is inevitable, but the work done by a person is immortal.» The main portal, soaring 20 meters high, was meticulously restored, its majolica paintings echoing the traditional white, blue, and ocher palette. The windows, embellished with lattice bars, carried the sacred names of Allah and the Prophet Muhammad.

Today, the rejuvenated Kukeldash Madrasah thrives as a religious educational institution, complete with modern amenities like computer rooms, a calligraphy hall, an extensive library, a gym, a cafeteria, and a dormitory. Annually, over 100 students embark on a competitive four-year program, with graduates having the option to serve in Uzbek mosques or pursue further education at secular universities.

Kukeldash Madrasah’s doors remain open to the curious and the devout alike. Visitors can wander its gardens, immerse themselves in its storied past, and marvel at the architecture that, though recently restored, still conjures the spirit of medieval Uzbekistan.