For nearly seven centuries, the Shirvanshahs governed the region now known as Azerbaijan, leaving an indelible mark on its development and culture. Their reign began in 861, with Shamakhi serving as their capital for the majority of this period. However, between 1382 and 1500, the royal family made Baku their home, during which time they fortified the city with defensive walls and constructed the impressive Shirvanshah Palace, their residence.
The palace complex was multifaceted, featuring various sections including a reception area for guests, a harem for the royal women, several mausoleums, a mosque, and a bathhouse. Today, the principal areas of the palace function as a museum, showcasing artifacts that reflect life in medieval Azerbaijan. Much of the palace has undergone restoration, particularly after it suffered significant damage following the Shirvanshahs’ return to Shamakhi and the turmoil that ensued during the conflict in Baku in 1918.
Upon entering the Shirvanshah Palace, visitors are greeted by a charming courtyard adorned with lush plants and trees surrounding a serene pond. A wall opposite the entrance bears the scars of history, marked with bullet holes from the violent confrontations of 1918. The exhibition continues inside the palace, guiding guests through the original waiting and reception rooms, which have largely lost their original decor over time. Following the Russian occupation in 1920, many exquisite ceramics and artworks were removed and taken to museums in St. Petersburg and Moscow, leaving behind only replicas in the Shirvanshah Palace itself. Exhibits now highlight the rich history of the Shirvanshah Dynasty and celebrate notable figures such as the esteemed poet Nizami Ganjavi. A dedicated room showcases exquisite jewelry crafted for both women and horses, reflecting the deep cultural significance of these elements in Azerbaijani society.
Venturing outside the main palace, visitors encounter the Divankhana, a structure that began construction as the Shirvanshahs fled Baku in anticipation of advancing Persian forces in 1500. This space may have been intended for legislative discussions, business meetings, or even religious gatherings or mausoleum purposes. Its purpose remains enigmatic, yet the harmonious symmetry and elegant arches create a tranquil atmosphere. Many decorative elements remain unfinished, but beautiful engravings of local flora, including fig and nut trees, adorn the walls. In 1920, Russian troops utilized the Divankhana as barracks, and the soldiers left behind graffiti that tells their stories. Beneath the Divankhana lie tunnels primarily used for food storage, with at least one extending further, potentially providing an escape route from invading armies.
Beyond the Shirvanshah Palace, visitors can explore an exhibition space, several mausoleums, a mosque, and a bathhouse. The expansive exhibition area contains remnants of Bayil Castle, which once protected Baku’s harbor until rising sea levels submerged it, leaving it forgotten for centuries. Archaeological efforts have revealed sections of the castle, including long stretches of Arabic and Persian inscriptions that once adorned its upper walls. These inscriptions now grace the courtyard at the back of the palace, near the Murod Gate.
Descending the hill, one finds the entrances to the mosque and the family mausoleum. Between these two significant sites stands a centuries-old pistachio tree, which continues to bear fruit every August. The mosque was meticulously designed for optimal acoustics, ensuring that the imam’s voice could be clearly heard in both the men’s and women’s sections. Ingeniously constructed holes and chambers in the walls were created to absorb sound waves, while a curved passage allowed voices to travel between the sections without allowing the two genders to see one another during prayer. The spacious wall recesses, including a partially concealed second story, also served as a secure hiding place for valuables during times of invasion, as mosques are considered sacred and were often left untouched by soldiers.
The Shirvanshah family mausoleum was initially built to house the remains of Halilullah’s family, who ruled from 1417 to 1465, making him the second of three shahs to reside in the Shirvanshah Palace. His mother was the first to be interred here, as noted by the inscription on the exterior. Interestingly, the architect’s name is also inscribed on the mausoleum, albeit in a clever manner, as architects were traditionally prohibited from signing their work. His name is rendered in Arabic script within a teardrop design, but in reverse, so it can only be deciphered using a mirror. Inside the mausoleum, there are approximately seven graves, including those of Halilullah, his children, and his mother.
The lowest section of the Shirvanshah Palace is situated so far down the hill that it remained underground for centuries. The bathhouse, an integral aspect of palace life, fell into disrepair after the departure of the shahs and was eventually buried and forgotten. Archaeological excavations later uncovered the chambers of the bathhouse, revealing copper pipes that once supplied water and large cisterns used for heating it. This bathhouse was not merely a place for bathing; it served as a vital social hub where women gathered to arrange marriages and display their social standing, while men congregated here before weddings and for casual social interactions.
The design of the bathhouse was sophisticated, with a layout that facilitated both privacy and community. The rooms were strategically arranged to offer different bathing experiences, from warm to hot, ensuring that visitors could enjoy a range of temperatures. The architecture featured domed ceilings that allowed for natural light to filter in, creating a serene and inviting atmosphere. The intricate tile work and decorative elements, although partially lost to time, still hint at the opulence that once characterized this space.
As a cultural cornerstone, the bathhouse played a significant role in the daily lives of the residents of Baku. It was a place where personal stories were shared, friendships were forged, and important life decisions were made. The gatherings held here contributed to the social fabric of the community, reinforcing bonds among families and friends.
In addition to its social functions, the bathhouse also reflected the technological advancements of the time. The heating system, which utilized large cisterns and intricate plumbing, showcased the engineering prowess of the era. This ingenuity not only provided comfort but also demonstrated the high standards of living that the Shirvanshahs sought to achieve for their court and subjects.
Today, the Shirvanshah Palace and its accompanying bathhouse stand as a testament to the rich history and cultural heritage of Azerbaijan. Visitors to this remarkable site are invited to explore the grandeur of the past, walking through the elegant halls and serene courtyards that once echoed with the laughter and conversations of the royal family and their guests. The palace and bathhouse together tell a compelling story of a bygone era, inviting all who enter to reflect on the lives lived within these historic walls.