Khan-Tengri

Khan-Tengri, Kazakhstan

Khan Tengri, 7000m peak

The ancient Turks referred to one of the highest peaks in the Tien Shan mountain range, Khan-Tengri, as the “Lord of the Sky.” Standing at nearly 7,000 meters, it straddles the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. For thousands of years, this towering peak was sacred to the ancient Turks and remains intertwined with numerous legends and beliefs. Another name for it is “Kantau,” meaning “Blood Mountain,” which stems from the pink granite that covers the peak. During sunset, this granite takes on a striking reddish hue.

Before converting to Islam, the Turkic and Mongolian tribes practiced Tengrianism, a pagan religion in which Tengri, the Supreme God, governed human fate and lifespan. The ancient Turks believed that their god could only dwell at the peak of the world, and for them, Khan-Tengri represented that sacred pinnacle.

Although Khan-Tengri had appeared in many travel accounts, it was first explored in the 19th century by the renowned Russian geographer P.P. Semyonov-Tyan-Shansky. He described the peak as an almost perfect pyramid in shape. To this day, many modern mountaineers regard Khan-Tengri as one of the most beautiful peaks in the world due to its nearly flawless geometric symmetry.

The first successful ascent of Khan-Tengri took place in 1931, undertaken by Mikhail Pogrebitsky, Boris Tyurin, and Franz Zauberer. Pogrebitsky, in his memoirs, described a breathtaking sunset at the summit: “Khan-Tengri was ablaze like a massive, faceted ruby against a dark turquoise sky.”

Today, climbers from around the world gather at training camps on the glaciers of Northern Enylchek in Kazakhstan and Southern Enylchek in Kyrgyzstan to prepare for their ascent of Khan-Tengri. To date, 25 climbing routes have been established.

Khan-Tengri is considered one of the most challenging and remote peaks in the world, and it’s no coincidence that the ancient Turks named it the “Lord of the Sky.” Its imposing grandeur and the difficulty of the climb have earned it a place among the world’s most formidable mountains, comparable to the renowned 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalayas. For mountaineers, Khan-Tengri represents a true test of both courage and skill.

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