The Aral Sea, once the world’s fourth-largest lake, has dramatically shrunk over the past fifty years, now covering less than a tenth of its original size. This drastic transformation has made it an iconic example of a severe ecological disaster. In 1960, the Aral Sea spanned an impressive 68,900 square kilometers, but by 2020, it had reduced to under 7,000 square kilometers. The water level has dropped by 25 meters, and the salinity has increased so significantly that all fish species have perished, making the sea resemble the Dead Sea in its salinity.
The Aral Sea was primarily fed by the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers. However, extensive irrigation practices and climate changes have drastically reduced the water inflow to the sea—today, it receives only about 5% of the water it once did. This has left former port cities like Muynak and Aralsk stranded far from the current shoreline, their harbors now desolate ship graveyards. The dried-up seabed has transformed into the vast Aralkum Desert, mirroring the Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts.
The geological history of the Aral Sea is relatively recent; it formed approximately 17,600 years ago from melting glaciers in the Pamir and Tian Shan mountains at the end of the last ice age. Throughout its history, the water level of the sea has fluctuated. For instance, in 2001, researchers discovered a 12th-century mausoleum, Kerderi, on the former seabed in the Kazakh part of the sea. This site had been submerged during the 15th and 16th centuries and remained underwater until the late 20th century.
The first known ships sailed on the Aral Sea in the mid-19th century. By the early 20th century, the sea was bustling with fishing fleets that harvested over 50,000 tons of fish annually during their peak years.
The Aral Sea began to experience a sharp decline in water level around 1960. Over the following three decades, the lake’s size was halved, and by 30 years later, only 10% of its original area remained. This catastrophic reduction has had severe environmental and socioeconomic impacts, including the collapse of local fisheries and increased health problems among the local population due to wind-blown dust from the dried seabed.
The Aral Sea, once the fourth-largest lake in the world, has become a striking example of ecological transformation. Despite its reduction to a tenth of its original size, the region offers a unique travel experience that combines natural beauty, historical insights, and a profound understanding of environmental change.
Most tours to the Aral Sea begin in Nukus, a city approximately 200 km from the former port town of Muynak. Nukus is easily accessible via an international airport with daily flights from Tashkent and weekly connections from Moscow and other CIS cities. In Nukus, you can hire SUVs with experienced drivers who are well-versed in navigating the challenging terrain around the Aral Sea.
From Nukus, the journey to Muynak takes you along a paved road, gradually transitioning to more rugged paths. Muynak itself is a place of historical significance, with its local museum and the iconic ship graveyard offering poignant reminders of the sea’s former glory. These sites provide a glimpse into the lives of those who once depended on the Aral Sea for their livelihood.
Continuing from Muynak, the route involves off-road travel towards the current shoreline of the Aral Sea. Along the way, you will traverse the Ustyurt Plateau, with its dramatic landscapes, before descending to the sea’s edge. Here, visitors can experience the unique atmosphere of the yurt camps set up along the shoreline, providing a taste of traditional nomadic life.
A visit to Sudochie Lake is often included in the tour, where the abandoned fishing village of Urga stands as a testament to the region’s changing fortunes. Exploring this area offers insights into the history of the local fishing industry and the dramatic environmental shifts that have occurred.
While a typical tour to the Aral Sea spans two days, there are options for more extended explorations. These can include further travel along the coastline towards Kazakhstan or a visit to the Barsa-Kelmes salt marsh. Such extensions allow for a deeper understanding of the region’s ecological and historical context.
Highlights of an Aral Sea Tour
Tours to the Aral Sea offer a rare combination of natural beauty, historical depth, and environmental education. A visit to Aral Sea region provides an unforgettable experience, highlighting the resilience of nature and the profound impact of human activity on our planet.
Despite its tragic history, the Aral Sea region offers several unique attractions:
The Modern Coastline: The journey to the modern coastline of the Aral Sea provides a stark view of the ecological disaster’s extent, showcasing how far the waters have receded.
Ship Graveyard in Muynak: This poignant site features a collection of ships from the 1980s, now rusting and turning into iron skeletons. Currently, 11 ships and boats remain as silent witnesses to the sea’s retreat.
Kurgancha-Kala: Built in the 13th century, this site served as a refuge and outpost for caravans. Located 100 km northwest of Muynak on the Ustyurt Plateau, it now hosts a yurt camp for tourists.
Sudochie Lakes: Once connected to the Aral Sea, these lakes were prolific in fish production, harvesting 2,000 tons annually. The western shore was home to the fishing village of Urga, now a reminder of the area’s rich past.
Aralsk-7: A former secret Soviet-era city on Vozrozhdeniya (Rebirth) Island used for biological weapons development and testing. Abandoned in 1992, the laboratories were dismantled, and today, the site is deserted.
Visit the Muynak Ship Graveyard
Explore Muynak History Museum
Discover ancient Mizdakhan complex
Visit Mausoleum of Nazlukhansulu
Explore ruins of Gaur-Kala fortress
Wander through historic Khodjely landmarks