I planned a trip along this route for the second half of March (during Navruz). I’m back now and here’s my travel report. Hopefully, someone finds this information useful.
The route is doable. I drove a car with Uzbek plates (yellow numbers) and had a Russian passport.
Border Crossing near Bekabad:
Closed for Russian citizens; redirected to Oybek.
Oybek Crossing:
Took 3 hours total. Spent over an hour waiting for the internet to process the temporary vehicle import into Tajikistan. Everything moves very slowly. Uzbek border guards made me unload the entire car. There’s an official “fee” for car disinfection, but the price seems arbitrary.
First Stop - Khujand:
Because of the border crossing confusion, I stayed the night in Khujand. A pleasant city! Roads to Khujand are smooth and in good condition. Local drivers are polite.
Khujand to Dushanbe:
This was the most scenic part of the trip. Stunning mountain switchbacks and extreme tunnels (unlit, with poor ventilation). The roads are narrow but in good shape. There’s a toll, but it’s inexpensive. Police with handheld radars are present, though I wasn’t stopped. Gas stations are available but unbranded, so fuel quality is questionable.
Dushanbe:
Broad streets and a curious city overall, though not love-at-first-sight. Plenty of Gazprom gas stations resembling those in Russia.
Dushanbe to Hissar Fortress:
Just outside Dushanbe. The fortress is more of a reconstruction, ideal for history buffs. The views from the fortress grounds are spectacular and worth the trip.
Hissar to the Duisti Border Crossing:
On the Tajik side, the queues were small but barely moved. Corruption is rampant; they offer fast-tracking for a fee, but even after that, progress is slow. The bottleneck lies with Uzbek customs. Every vehicle is X-rayed, belongings are scanned, and cars are inspected thoroughly for 10–15 minutes, often dismantling parts. The pace is four cars per hour. Took me 5.5 hours to cross. Spent the night in the nearest town.
Termiz:
Uzbek roads deteriorated noticeably in this region. At the Friendship Bridge border post, you’re not allowed in unless crossing into Afghanistan. Tried to catch a glimpse of Afghanistan, but high walls block the view everywhere. However, I stumbled upon the Al-Termezi Memorial Complex on Google Maps (search via Yandex). It’s the Old Termiz area. A fascinating site, and if you climb the ancient city walls, you can see Afghanistan clearly. But remember, it’s a state border with barbed wire—don’t test your luck!
Khojikent Salt Caves:
The road there is breathtaking but horrendous. It’s worth the trip for the stunning scenery and the chance to stock up on Himalayan salt or buy inexpensive salt lamps.
Shakhrisabz - Missed It:
Due to delays, I skipped Shakhrisabz and took the fast road instead. The road quality varies, from modern highways to the usual rough patches.
Samarkand to Tashkent:
This stretch was maddening—300 km took me 5.5 hours. Traffic jams, chaotic driving, and subpar road conditions. Locals speeding in ancient clunkers didn’t help. Witnessed three accidents, one right in front of me. Driving in Uzbekistan is significantly more reckless than in Tajikistan.
Additional Notes:
In summary: it’s doable but be prepared for challenges.
Thanks for the report! We were considering a rental car trip from Tashkent to Samarkand, but this doesn’t sound like a good idea. We’ll look into the train instead.
Taking the “Afrosiyob” train is 100 times more pleasant and twice as fast. Just make sure to book tickets in advance—they sell out quickly.
Planning a trip to that area but didn’t quite understand your route. Hissar, Duisti, and Termiz are in different directions. How did you go from Duisti to Termiz? On the map, Duisti is near Afghanistan (Sher Khan). Or am I missing something? Is the border from Hissar to Termiz via Sariosiyo? Did you need a special permit for the border areas near Dushanbe?
I wasn’t referring to the village of Duisti, but the Duisti border checkpoint—it’s the same as the one you mentioned. No special permits were required.
I figured it out! There are two Duistis! One is the Uzbek-Tajik border crossing, and the other is a village on the Tajik-Afghan border. The latter is larger and shows up more easily on maps. The first is harder to find. A traveler once mentioned being turned back near Baisun for lacking a permit. Thanks for clarifying!