Good day, fellow travelers!
I’m considering traveling this route in the last week of December and would love to hear your insights. Specifically, I’m interested in the passability of the Khorog-Murghab-Osh section during winter. Has anyone here tackled it in this season? Also, how essential is an overnight stay in Murghab? What’s the traffic frequency like at this time of year, and how much does it cost? Finally, is there any mobile coverage along the route, or should I prepare for a complete communication blackout?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I’m also curious about winter travel, but on the Dushanbe – Kulob – Kalaikhumb route. Is it even possible during this season?
I’m interested in the passability of the Khorog-Murghab-Osh section during winter.
I haven’t been there in winter, but I did travel the route in May. Here’s what I can tell you:
The Dushanbe-Kulob-Kalaikhumb route is a more manageable option. The elevations are lower, so temperatures are less extreme. Plus, I’ve even seen internet access in guesthouses in Kalaikhumb. And Kulob? It’s a proper city with a population of over 100,000, so no worries there.I’m also curious about winter travel, but on the Dushanbe – Kulob – Kalaikhumb route.
We got stuck in the snow there once—in September! Even if the route is theoretically passable, the weather can be highly unpredictable in practice. An overnight stay in Murghab will likely be necessary, and mobile coverage is almost nonexistent.
I traveled to Khorog in late December 2023. Unfortunately, the through route to Osh was a no-go because the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan was closed at the time. From what I’ve heard, it reopened in the summer of 2024.
The drive via Kulob took 18 hours on the way to Khorog and 14 hours on the way back. Everything depends on the car, the driver, and the weather. For instance, the pass after Kulob was clear on the way to Khorog but snow-covered and foggy on the return. Don’t expect precise travel timing—it’s best to embrace a flexible schedule.
Initially, my main goal was to travel the Khorog-Murghab section. However, due to the closed border and limited time, I had to return to Dushanbe instead.
If you’re arriving early in Dushanbe and don’t want to waste an entire day on getting GBAO permit, head to the OVIR office as soon as it opens. Negotiate the permit price on the spot. I managed to get mine in just two minutes. From there, you can head straight to the minibus station for the Pamirs. By the way, there’s a great restaurant near OVIR called Kurutobkhonai Navruzi.