Hi everyone,
My partner and I are planning a trip to Uzbekistan in early April. We've booked tickets for the slow train from Khiva to Bukhara in platzkart class (unfortunately, no coupe available), which we’re okay with, although it won’t have air conditioning. We're also contemplating the option of driving instead, as it would allow us to explore some ancient mud castles along the way—something we wouldn't have time for if we went directly from Khiva.
A local agency has offered us a private transfer that includes visits to five castles: Kizil, Toprak, Ayaz, Dumon, and Guldursun. My main question is whether this detour is worth it. If you had to pick just one or two of these castles, which would you recommend? I’ve done some research and seen pictures, but I’m still undecided. We aren’t particularly fit and prefer not to do any strenuous climbing. We’re mainly interested in ancient ruins set in unique landscapes, even if we can’t explore every detail due to physical limitations.
Has anyone made this journey recently? Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
We recently took a similar trip from Khiva to Bukhara, aiming to see Kizil Kala, Toprak Kala, and Ayaz Kala, but we ultimately decided that visiting all five castles would be too ambitious for us.
We ended up leaving Khiva a bit later than planned, so to save some time, we visited Ayaz Kala first, and I can confidently say it’s a must-see! The views are absolutely stunning, and I think you’ll manage the visit just fine. We had a fantastic time exploring it. After that, we opted to skip the detour to the other two castles and headed straight for Dumon Kala and Guldursun Kala. Both were fascinating in their own right; Dumon Kala is quite small with a unique square shape, while Guldursun Kala, being a fortified town, had a charming scene where we even spotted a shepherd herding goats within its walls.
In hindsight, visiting these three was more than sufficient for us, as each had its own character and was easily accessible without much climbing. Adding the extra two castles would have made the journey unnecessarily lengthy and tedious.
Even with our shortened itinerary, the trip took longer than we expected. We left Khiva around 10:30 AM and didn’t reach our hotel in Bukhara until 10 PM! We only stopped at the three fortresses, grabbed a quick lunch, and then drove straight to Bukhara without any more breaks.
I definitely recommend seeing these castles, and traveling by car allows for more flexibility to stop whenever you need a break. We opted for a larger minivan to ensure we traveled comfortably. Contrary to some reviews, the roads were in much better condition than expected, though the journey was still long and tiring. I was grateful that we had two and a half days in Bukhara afterward to relax and soak in the sights without feeling rushed. If possible, I’d suggest doing this trip at the beginning of your journey and allowing yourself a day to unwind afterward.
Bukhara was absolutely delightful, and we loved every moment there!
Hey everyone,
I’m curious about a few things regarding traveling from Khiva to Bukhara by train. First, how long does the journey typically take? Second, what days and times do the trains operate, and where can I find the schedule? Lastly, is it possible to purchase tickets in advance, and if so, what’s the process? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi there!
I recently bought tickets from Tashkent to Kokand, and it was a pretty straightforward experience. There’s a separate ticket office to the left of the main entrance at the Tashkent train station. Just a heads up, though—English isn’t widely spoken, but you should manage just fine. For other routes, I purchased tickets online through Uzbekistan Railways, which is also a convenient option.
there are 2 trains running this route, one in the morning and the other in the evening (overnight), each taking appx. 8 hours to reach Bukhara.
Just a note: the high-speed Afrosiyob train doesn’t go all the way to Khiva. A more comfortable option is to take a taxi to Urgench and then catch a flight from Urgench to Bukhara. Flights are pretty affordable, but they often don’t get scheduled until about 6-8 weeks in advance, and they tend to fill up quickly. Tour agencies grab a lot of the seats, so it's good to keep an eye on the Uzbekistan Airways website or reach out to some travel agency for assistance in booking your flight.
I recommend downloading the Uzbekistan Railways app or checking out their website for ticket purchases. It’s quite user-friendly. Just remember that you can only buy tickets up to 6-8 weeks in advance. Unfortunately, there’s no high-speed train connecting Khiva and Bukhara, but if you can find a night train, it’s a cozy option!
I’m currently planning my trip to Uzbekistan for May. I intend to travel by train from Tashkent to Samarkand and then to Bukhara. However, I downloaded the UZ Railway app, and every date I check says “No seats available.” What’s going on?
That’s likely because tickets can only be purchased 45 days in advance. And just a reminder, the high-speed train doesn’t operate between Khiva and Bukhara. On the bright side, this gives you a chance to experience a bit of nostalgia and travel back to the Soviet era! Some of the trains are quite vintage, and you can enjoy hot water from samovars in the dining car while sipping local vodka from tea cups.
Also, keep in mind that the railway station in Bukhara is actually located in a smaller town nearby. Some hotels provide complimentary pick-up services, so it’s wise to arrange that ahead of time to avoid late-night taxi hassles.
One more thing to be cautious about: last year, many travelers reported a glitch in the booking system. Trains between Khiva and Bukhara often show as fully booked, even though the same trains traveling to and from Navoi (which is a bit further east) display plenty of available seats. Just a few days before departure, tickets for Khiva to Bukhara may become available, but you might not get your preferred seating options.
If you’re heading east, a simple workaround is to buy a ticket from Khiva to Navoi and just get off in Bukhara. The fare difference is minimal, around 30,000 som. For those traveling in the opposite direction, some have managed to board in Bukhara with a Navoi ticket, but this comes with a bit of risk since your ticket could be resold if you don’t show up at Navoi.
Generally, you shouldn't have too many issues getting tickets on these older trains, as they don’t sell out as quickly as the Afrosiyob trains. And if all else fails, you can always arrange a car transfer!