Son-Kul Lake

Son-Kul Lake, also known as Sonkel or Sonkul, is nestled in the northwestern part of the Naryn region in Kyrgyzstan. It stands as the second-largest lake in the country, following Issyk-Kul in size.

The name «Son-Kul» translates to «lake of wild ducks» in Kyrgyz, highlighting the area’s rich birdlife. This alpine lake sits at an impressive altitude of 3,016 meters above sea level, surrounded by the stunning gorges of the Tien Shan Mountains. Spanning 278 square kilometers, Son-Kul stretches 28 kilometers in length and 18 kilometers in width, with an average depth of 8.6 meters and a maximum depth nearing 14 meters.

Part of the lake lies within the Karatal-Japyryk State Reserve, established in 1994. Son-Kul’s waters are home to a variety of fish species, including whitefish, Tibetan char, gray char, common marinka, and more. Interestingly, no fish inhabited the lake before 1959 due to the cold climate, but they were introduced for breeding. The lake also attracts numerous bird species, while its surrounding mountains and coastal areas are inhabited by snow leopards, foxes, and wolves. Though trees are scarce in the area, it boasts a wealth of medicinal herbs, which locals harvest, dry, and brew as traditional remedies. Edelweiss flowers also bloom in this unique landscape.

Son-Kul is a glacial lake, fed by the melting ice of surrounding glaciers. The Son-Kul River flows out of the lake and eventually joins the Naryn River. From late September to early June, the lake remains frozen, with winter temperatures plummeting to as low as -20°C (-4°F). Due to the harsh conditions and impassable roads, Son-Kul is virtually inaccessible during winter, making it a seasonal destination.

In summer, however, the lake’s striking azure waters draw both locals and visitors. The lake is surrounded by lush green meadows, where herds of sheep and horses graze under the watchful eye of local shepherds. These shepherds migrate to the lake’s pastures, known as jailoos, for the entire summer season, living in traditional yurts. When winter approaches, the yurts are dismantled and the area becomes deserted once again.

The journey to Son-Kul from Bishkek takes around 6-7 hours by car, with most of the route on decent roads, though some sections are off-road. The drive offers breathtaking views of rolling hills, and the lake’s most beautiful panoramas can be admired from its western shore, accessible via the Kalmak-Ashuu and Terskey-Torpok passes. The southern shore can be reached through the Moldo-Ashuu pass. For those seeking an adventurous trek or horseback ride to Son-Kul, the Chilbel, Uzbek, and Tuz-Ashuu passes offer convenient routes.

Visitors looking to immerse themselves in traditional Kyrgyz nomadic culture can rent a felt-insulated yurt from the local population. Even in the summer months, daytime temperatures may only reach around 15°C (59°F), with nighttime temperatures often dipping below freezing. However, the yurts are equipped with natural insulation and wood-burning stoves to keep guests warm. At Son-Kul, visitors can also enjoy horse riding or fishing along the lake’s shores.

The area around the lake is rich in history, with ancient rock carvings providing evidence that herders have been bringing their livestock to these high-altitude pastures for centuries.

On the northern shore of Son-Kul stands the region’s only permanent structure: the mausoleum of Tailak Baatyr, a Kyrgyz national hero. This gumbez (mausoleum) was built in the late 19th century to honor Tailak Baatyr, who lived in the late 18th and early 19th centuries and defended Kyrgyz lands against invasions from China and Kokand. His brother and ally, Atanai, is also buried nearby.

Close to Son-Kul lies the village of Kok-Oi, home to the Emel mineral water spring. This water is said to have a composition similar to the famous Borjomi mineral water, making it a popular stop for those seeking its purported health benefits.