Khujand

Khujand, one of the most ancient cities in Central Asia, stands proudly as the second-largest city in Tajikistan with a population of around 180,000. Locals humorously refer to it as «our Saint Petersburg,» and indeed, there are striking similarities between the two northern cities—former Leningrad and Leninabad. Both are graced by a grand river with a stately embankment, broad avenues, an intricate system of suburbs, and a distinct atmosphere of high culture. Khujand, with its unique blend of Soviet technocracy and a millennium of Persian heritage, is often regarded as one of the finest cities in the entire region.

According to some historical sources, Khujand was founded in the 7th or 6th century BC. It was later conquered by Alexander the Great, who rebuilt, fortified, and renamed it Alexandria Eschate (The Farthest Alexandria). Situated strategically along the Great Silk Road, which connected Samarkand to the Fergana Valley, Khujand occupied a significant geopolitical and transport role. After the Arabs conquered the city in the 8th century, Khujand resisted Genghis Khan’s forces but eventually succumbed to destruction in the 13th century. Despite this devastation, Khujand soon recovered, flourishing once again as a major commercial, cultural, and scientific hub in Central Asia. Today, it remains an important industrial and cultural center in northern Tajikistan.

Nestled in a picturesque valley along the banks of the Syr-Darya River and surrounded by mountains, Khujand benefits from a fresh and clean atmosphere. It is not a sprawling modern metropolis but rather a serene reflection of Soviet and post-Soviet times. The city’s streets are calm and bright, and its residents are known for their friendliness and hospitality. The markets offer an abundance of delicious, juicy, and affordable fruits, adding to the charm of the city’s simple yet vibrant life.

A few kilometers upstream lies the expansive Kayrakkum Reservoir, which stretches for 55 kilometers. The lakeside is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, offering opportunities for swimming, sunbathing, and fishing. Khujand’s climate is as delightful as its natural surroundings. The intense summer heat is tempered by the winds and waters of the Syr-Darya, while winters remain mild with only light snowfall.

Much like a thousand years ago, Khujand still plays a crucial role in transportation. It serves as a gateway between Central Uzbekistan, the Fergana Valley, and Kyrgyzstan, making it a vital transit point. The city boasts a railway station and an airport located just 11 kilometers from its center. The closest major cities are Bekabad (40 km to the west) and Kokand (140 km to the east).

Khujand is steeped in history, with numerous architectural monuments and landmarks that have survived the centuries. But the city is not solely defined by ancient ruins and medieval buildings. Beyond the historic center lies a more modern section, where clean, tree-lined streets and low-rise buildings evoke memories of the Soviet era. This area is adorned with statues of Lenin, Soviet-era heroes, and murals depicting collective farmers and astronauts, preserving the echoes of a bygone time.

Among the city’s most treasured monuments are those from the 16th and 17th centuries, including the Sheikh Muslihiddin Mausoleum, the Jami Mosque, and the Khujand Fortress. The fortress, originally built alongside the city more than 2,500 years ago, has undergone numerous cycles of destruction and restoration. It was part of an ancient defensive system, and by the 6th and 5th centuries BC, the fortress had expanded as the city grew. Despite being razed by Genghis Khan’s forces in the 13th century, it was rebuilt in the late 15th century and served as the residence of Khujand’s ruler. Today, it houses a historical museum, providing a glimpse into the city’s storied past.

The Jami Mosque, also a mausoleum for Sheikh Muslihiddin, was constructed between 1512 and 1513 in the western part of the Panjshanbe Square. This magnificent mosque is a striking example of Central Asian medieval architecture. Its grandeur is evident in its vast structure, adorned with several dozen columns, intricate wooden carvings, elegant iwans, and delicate murals. The mosque features a large central dome surrounded by four smaller ones, while its walls, high arched doorways, and doors are richly decorated with mosaics and carvings.

Another significant religious landmark is the Church of Mary Magdalene, built in 1884 with funds from a wealthy merchant. Although a fire in 2005 nearly destroyed the church, it was fully restored in 2010. The church, now standing at 14 meters tall, is crowned by a gilded cross brought from Moscow. Inside, visitors can still see some of the original icons that survived the fire.

Khujand also honors its literary heritage with a monument to the 14th-century Persian poet Kamol Khujandi, whose real name was Kamol ad-Din ibn Masud. Though he spent much of his life in Tabriz, studying in Samarkand and Tashkent, and even living in the court of Tokhtamysh in Sarai, Kamol never forgot his birthplace and always signed his works «Khujandi.» The statue, located in the city’s Star Square, depicts the poet sitting before a set of wings symbolizing inspiration and sanctity. A map of his travels is carved at the monument’s base, linking his journey to his hometown.

Another prominent landmark is the statue of Ismail Samani, the emir of the Samanid dynasty. The 13-meter bronze statue, gilded and mounted on a tall granite column, reaches a total height of 27 meters and offers one of the best views in the city from the riverside.

No visit to Khujand is complete without exploring the vibrant Panjshanbe Bazaar. Stepping into this bustling market is like entering the heart of the Middle East. Surrounded by a minaret and the mausoleum of a sheikh, the market is a feast for the senses, where visitors can sample mouth-watering kebabs and traditional flatbreads.

Just 20 kilometers from the city lies the Kayrakkum Reservoir, one of the largest in the country. Dug during the Soviet era as part of a hydroelectric power project, the reservoir stretches over 50 kilometers and now features sandy beaches and numerous resorts along its shores. The reservoir is also famous for its abundant fish, making it a popular destination for fishing enthusiasts.

In today’s world, following the ancient paths of the Great Silk Road, it’s impossible to journey through Central Asia without visiting Khujand—a city that stands as a gateway through the snow-capped mountains and a corridor to the past.