In the heart of Samarkand lies Shahi-Zinda, a place where history and legend intertwine. The entrance to this sacred complex is marked by a stairway of 40 steps, each one symbolizing a journey of repentance and prayer. This stairway is not merely a physical path but a metaphorical ascent towards spiritual enlightenment.
During the medieval era, the mausoleum of Kussam ibn Abbas, known as the Mashad of Kussam, became a beacon for pilgrims, akin to the significance of Mecca. It was during this time that the stairway was constructed, embodying the profound transformation of the soul. Pilgrims would ascend these steps, reciting verses from the Quran and meditating on the divine at each pause. Some would embark on this spiritual journey internally, seated beneath the aivan’s shelter at the stairway’s base, only to physically climb the steps on the 40th day, reaching the mosque and the main mausoleum at the summit.
As dusk fell, the pilgrims would give way to Sufi mystics, who filled the night with their devotional songs. These practices varied in intensity, from silent contemplation to fervent chants, depending on the Sufi’s theological tradition.
One enduring legend speaks of Bahauddin Naqshbandi, the spiritual leader of the Naqshbandi Sufi Order, who undertook a 40-day prayer service. With each day’s prayer, he ascended one step, symbolizing his spiritual progress. Upon reaching the final step, he encountered a mysterious rider on a white horse. Initially fearing for his life, Naqshbandi was instead engaged in a profound exchange with the rider, who, as the legend goes, was Kussam ibn Abbas himself, testing the Sufi master’s resolve at the pinnacle of his spiritual quest.
This encounter further sanctified the mausoleum, drawing even more pilgrims, especially on the nights from Thursday to Friday. Their prayers resonated through the ancient architecture, a chorus of devotion that has echoed through the ages.
Today, visitors to Shahi-Zinda, whether driven by faith or curiosity, partake in the tradition of counting the steps. It is said that if the count matches on both ascent and descent, one’s soul is cleansed of sin. This practice, deeply rooted in the site’s history, continues to draw people from all walks of life, each step a reflection of the human spirit’s capacity for change and redemption.
The 40 steps of Shahi-Zinda symbolyse the enduring human quest for spiritual growth, they inspire and guide those who walk the path of the pilgrims before them. The echoes of prayers and the whispers of ancient tales invite us to look beyond the mere stone and mortar, to the realm of the transcendent, where the steps lead not just to a physical destination, but to a higher state of being.
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