Nestled high in the Gissar Mountains along the border with Tajikistan lies Gilan, the most exotic village in Uzbekistan. Until 2018, this secluded hamlet was off-limits to tourists, preserving its untouched charm. For over 800 years, the residents have cultivated the most delicious potatoes in Uzbekistan on the steep mountain slopes, all while maintaining ancient traditions and a unique way of life.
Here, mobile connectivity is non-existent, and during the warmer months, the community prepares diligently for the winter ahead. The breathtaking surroundings of Gilan add to its allure, marking it as one of the most picturesque and exotic spots in the country.
Far removed from civilization, this is a place where summer meets winter, and locals still drink from the pristine street canals, which are renowned for their purity. According to the villagers, their ancestors settled here in the mid-13th century to escape the wrath of Genghis Khan’s armies.
The summer weather in this stunning locale is pleasant—while the valleys of Uzbekistan swelter, Gilan enjoys a cool breeze. Mornings can even be chilly, prompting locals to wrap themselves in warm kaftans to ward off the cold. Spring in Gilan begins on May 1, while winter lasts for six months, arriving in November.
The history of Gilan, located in the Kashkadarya region, spans approximately 2,000 years. Situated at an altitude of 2,000 meters above sea level in the Gissar mountain range, it is 75 kilometers from the town of Shahrisabz. The journey from the city to this high-altitude village takes two to three hours, depending on the season. The population of Gilan is just over 5,200, predominantly composed of Tajiks.
The locals primarily engage in livestock breeding and agriculture. During the summer, they busily prepare for the impending winter, stockpiling their harvest and transporting supplies from the valleys, as traveling there in winter can be quite challenging. Agriculture and horticulture are prevalent, but there is a growing focus on animal husbandry. Additionally, residents practice carpentry, blacksmithing, pottery, and jewelry-making.
In the village, you will find a rural medical center, two schools, a teahouse, a community neighborhood (guzar), a small market, and several shops and pharmacies. There is also a memorial house-museum that houses traditional musical instruments and old photographs. The villagers live in harmony and unity, bound by invisible ties of trust and familiarity that allow them to know one another “up to the seventh generation.” This deep connection is why you won’t find houses enclosed by fences here, even to this day.
Crime is virtually non-existent in this tranquil village. Moreover, Gilan is home to many centenarians. The warm-hearted and welcoming villagers are always ready to lend a helping hand to each other and to travelers. In the harsh living conditions of these remote mountains, survival hinges on mutual support.
Visitors to Gilan are greeted with genuine surprise and curiosity. Upon entering the village, guests observe the daily routines: girls carrying buckets of water home, boys playing with makeshift weapons crafted from tree branches, and elders watching the street life from their windows. Mornings here are brisk, even in the height of summer, prompting residents to bundle up in warm chapan coats and jackets. Air conditioning is unnecessary in their homes.
The village has very few cars, with donkeys serving as the primary mode of transport, occasionally accompanied by motorcycles.
The tightly packed adobe houses create narrow, cool alleyways where sunlight rarely penetrates. Here, women wash dishes and do laundry outside, as there is no running water in the households, making outdoor chores more convenient. Due to limited sunlight, certain types of berries and fruits do not grow in Gilan. Melons, figs, grapes, watermelons, and other fruits are scarce and must be brought in from the valleys.
Gilan is renowned for its exceptional potatoes. The slopes surrounding the village are dotted with numerous potato fields. The local potatoes are famous for their quick cooking time, delicious flavor, and fluffy texture.
In the vicinity of the village, there are virtually no flat areas of land suitable for tractor use, forcing farmers to cultivate potato fields on steep (up to 40 degrees) mountain slopes almost manually, using simple plows pulled by pairs of bulls or donkeys. Fruit orchards are also grown on the steep slopes and river gorges. A particular pride of the villagers is the extensive irrigation network of artificial channels laid out on the mountain slopes for dozens of kilometers.
The central part of the village is especially exotic, featuring ancient houses and narrow streets. There are no other places in Uzbekistan where the layout of houses has the second floor as living space while the first floor is used for keeping livestock. This same architecture is also found in Tibet and the high mountainous regions of Nepal.
Meat plays a central role in the local cuisine. A rare dish called Ugro Osh is prepared here, which at first glance resembles pilaf. However, instead of rice, it features finely chopped and pre-fried vermicelli. Potatoes or turnips may also be added to the dish.
Despite being located in the mountains, Gilan has access to electricity, although outages are frequent. The villagers have ingeniously addressed this issue by pooling their resources to construct over 50 mini-hydroelectric stations along a mountain stream that flows through the village and leads to the Hisorak reservoir. The mechanics are straightforward: water is raised through channels or pipes, and then, under pressure, it flows back down to turn generators that produce electricity. During power outages, the residents rely on these hydro stations, making Gilan’s energy solutions more reliable than those found in urban areas.
Among the local attractions is the sacred Hazret Sultan Mountain, which rises majestically between 4,063 and 4,083 meters above sea level. This peak is the highest point in Uzbekistan and is located near Gilan, straddling the border with Tajikistan. It serves as a pilgrimage site for believers from across Uzbekistan and neighboring Tajikistan. The village is also home to a community mosque, built in 1848 and named after Muhammad ibn Gilan.
On the way to the village, one can visit one of the most impressive and water-rich waterfalls in Uzbekistan, the 40-meter Suvtushar waterfall.
In the village, tourists can interact with the locals and get acquainted with their way of life, take walks (1-3 days) through the picturesque surroundings, and visit neighboring villages such as Kul and Sarchashma.
The best time to visit the village is from June to October.
On the journey to Gilan, travelers can marvel at the famous Hisorak reservoir, situated at an altitude of 1,800 to 2,000 meters above sea level, providing water to the surrounding regions. The delicious local cuisine, enchanting landscapes, friendly residents, and rich history captivate every visitor. A trip to Gilan offers a unique chance to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life and find inspiration in the simplicity of its people and the beauty of nature.
This is a place where history and nature converge to create an unparalleled symphony that leaves a lasting impression on the soul of every person who visits this high-altitude village.
🔺 Founded in 1305
🔺 Population ranges from 5,000 to 7,000, exclusively Tajik-Gilani
🔺 Preserves centuries-old traditions and customs
🔺 Unique architecture (the first floor for livestock, the second for humans) to protect against the harsh winter cold
🔺 Abundant atmospheric spots; a minimum two-night stay is recommended
🔺 The ancient teahouse, surrounded by trees, offers stunning views of the mountains and a captivating atmosphere.
🔺 The museum-library, lovingly maintained by the locals, is in need of books in Russian, English, and French, especially children’s literature.
🔺 The mini-hydroelectric stations (over 50) built by the villagers themselves, which they utilize during power outages. The most remarkable aspect here is the community’s solidarity in tackling challenges; they eagerly await the construction of a proper road to the village.
🔺 The narrow streets of the oldest part of the village, which feel like stepping onto the pages of a history book, are rich in atmosphere.
🔺 The homes of local artisans, where visitors can purchase paintings and crafts.
🔺 The sacred Hazret Sultan Mountain, the highest point in Uzbekistan, located near Gilan, is a must-see for its spiritual significance and breathtaking views.
Travel to the city of Karshi, and from there, or from the city of Shahrisabz (which is also worth a visit), look for a 4×4 taxi. The journey to the village is challenging, as travelers navigate difficult mountain roads with steep descents, significant elevation changes, and numerous dizzying turns.
Be ready to embrace a lifestyle devoid of familiar urban conveniences. Instead of beds, you’ll find kurpachi (traditional bedding), and instead of cafes, you’ll enjoy dinners with local families, which is a delightful experience. There are several guesthouses available for accommodation.
