Here’s the question. We want to visit Karatepa Buddhist Complex in Termez. They write that a special permit is required. But no one explains how to obtain it if you are traveling independently without a tour operator. Maybe someone knows what to do.
Maybe my story about Termez will be useful for someone. I flew from Tashkent with Uzbekistan Airways. Keep in mind that the airport in Termez is small and slow — baggage delivery can take about 30 minutes, and there is only one toilet and there is always a big queue upon arrival. I stayed at Hilton Garden Inn Termez in the so-called Free Trade Zone. There is a bazaar organized there where Uzbeks and Afghans come — probably you can buy some Afghan exotic goods, but on Monday morning there were only carpets. Entry to the zone is by passport, with security checks like at an airport; there may be queues both at the entrance and the exit. Russian is not spoken very well in Termez. In the city itself there is not much to see, but if you are interested in ancient ruins and civilizations — then this is the place for you.
Once there was a Greco-Buddhist civilization here, from which ruins remain in the surroundings of the city and exhibits in the archaeological museum. At the museum the attendant offered me a guide, introducing him as an archaeologist. I didn’t ask him for any identification, but at the ruins he is at least acquainted with the archaeologists) The Buddhist ruins are called Zurmal Stupa, Fayaztepa and Karatepa Buddhist Complex. You can see everything in two or three hours. I don’t know about the permit — no one seemed to ask anything.
In general, it’s worth stopping in Termez for a day if you are interested in ancient history. From Termez to Samarkand I went by train. The train is old, Soviet-style, without air conditioning, but at night it was already comfortable. There are luggage storage lockers at the station.
In Termez there is no historical center like in Samarkand or Bukhara. All historical sights are outside the city, because throughout its history — and Termez is more than 2500 years old — the city was rebuilt several times in new locations. Modern Termez was founded for the fourth time during the reign of Nicholas II as a Russian garrison and later began to expand.
Sights of Termez:
• Kampyrtepa — an ancient city: “Alexandria on the Oxus” (founded in the 4th century BC), an outpost of Alexander the Great during his campaigns in Asia.
• Zurmal Stupa — the only Buddhist stupa in Central Asia dating from the time of the Kushan Empire (1st–3rd century AD).
• Fayaztepa and Karatepa Buddhist Complex — a Buddhist temple and a complex of monasteries with earthen caves from the Kushan period (1st–3rd century AD).
• Old Termez Archaeological Site — fortress walls and ruins. The mausoleum of Al-Hakim al-Tirmizi Mausoleum (9th–14th centuries) — the largest representative of Central Asian Sufism.
• Kirk-Kiz Fortress and Kokildor-Ota Khanaka (9th–14th centuries).
• Sultan Saodat Memorial Complex (9th–14th centuries) — mausoleums of the dynasty of Termez sheikhs (sayyids), descendants of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), tracing their lineage to one of the sons of the Prophet’s daughter and her husband, who was also the Prophet’s cousin and closest companion.
• Jarkurgan Minaret — built in 1108–1109 AD.