The Seven Jewels of Shing

To the village of Tarror—about 20 kilometers—there is a well-paved road. Beyond that, more than 30 kilometers must be traveled along a winding and uneven rocky road. Although this stretch is part of a national highway, it remains unimproved to this day.

The Marguzor Lakes stretch along the entire course of the Shing River, from an altitude of 1,600 to 2,400 meters above sea level. They are of landslide origin, their natural dams formed millions of years ago as a result of earthquakes and mudflows from melting glaciers.

The first lake, Mijgon (“Eyelash”), is located at an altitude of 1,640 meters above sea level. It stands out from the other lakes in the cascade with its multicolored waters: the hue of the lake constantly changes depending on weather conditions and time of day. Often, especially in the morning, the lake is a deep dark blue, but after a while, Mijgon turns green, then blue, and by evening, the water becomes orange.

There is a legend that Lake Mijgon is named after the youngest of seven daughters of a blacksmith who lived in these parts in ancient times. She was so beautiful that a local ruler fell in love with her. He asked the blacksmith for her hand, and the blacksmith agreed. But Mijgon did not want to marry the old padishah and, on the wedding day, threw herself from the roof of a high palace. At the site of her death, Lake Mijgon formed.

The other six daughters of the blacksmith, grieving for their sister, asked God to turn them into lakes as well.
Another legend says that seven beautiful sisters from the Marguzor Valley were loved by seven divs (mythological humanoid giants). The girls tried to escape, but the divs pursued them. Then they asked God to hide them, and He turned the girls into lakes and the divs into mountains.

A natural landslide separates Lake Mijgon from the next one—Lake Soya (“Shadow”). It lies between two high cliffs and seems to remain in their shadow. Water filters into it from the landslide that separates it from the third lake. Local families often come here to relax, finding cozy spots under the shade of large plane trees growing along the lake’s shores. Perhaps the lake got its name from these centuries-old trees.

The next lake is called Khushyor (“Vigilant”). It is said that once it was full of poisonous snakes, and locals warned travelers of the danger and the need to be cautious. However, in modern times, no one has seen snakes in the lake. There is another version of the origin of the name “Khushyor.” From this lake to the next, the fourth, there is a narrow, winding road, so travelers are urged to be vigilant.

Along the serpentine road, the car climbs higher—to Lake Nofin (“Umbilical Cord”). Its name indicates that the lake is in the very middle of the cascade. Locals claim that Nofin sometimes turns reddish, but after a while, the water returns to its emerald color. The locals believe that innocent blood was once spilled here, and if the water’s color does not return to normal for a long time, the elders say that a goat or at least a chicken must be sacrificed.

At Lake Nofin, tourists have to get out of the car and continue on foot: this year, due to the heat and intense glacier melting, the water level in the lake has risen, and the road along it has been flooded. Almost two hundred meters must be waded through: the water is knee-deep, and sometimes higher.

Beyond the fourth lake begins the most exotic part of the valley. Here lies the small village of Padrud. Its population is traditionally engaged in livestock breeding and cultivating small gardens on tiny patches of land among stone fields in the beds of seasonal streams. There is even a hotel here, though it’s better to stay a few kilometers upstream, where a modern campsite is equipped.

At the exit from Padrud lies the smallest of the Seven Lakes—Khurdak, which means “little one.” The lake is only 240 meters long. But its surroundings are fairy-tale beautiful, and the lake itself seems filled not with water but with milk—its water is a pale milky color.

The sixth lake—Marguzor (“Meadow”)—is the largest of the seven. It is 4.5 kilometers long and up to 45 meters deep. It lies between sheer cliffs and jagged peaks. A cruise ship could sail here, if it somehow found its way to this place.

Marguzor is also considered the most beautiful lake in the cascade. In terms of color, it not only rivals Lake Mijgon but even surpasses it. The water in Marguzor plays with all shades, from deep blue to soft turquoise, and sometimes turns reddish. Tajik hydrologists claim that underwater currents saturated with mineral salts may influence the color play.

Locals drink this water raw without fear when necessary. They catch marinka—a cold-water fish that can grow up to half a meter long in these deep and clean waters. At the southern end of Lake Marguzor, in small villages, the outermost houses stand right above the water.

The lake’s shores are still covered with blooming meadow vegetation in mid-summer. When thermometers in the lower valley showed +44 degrees Celsius during the day and did not drop below +29 at night, the shores of Marguzor were at +7 at night, and dew fell by morning. Around the lake, there are stone houses where one can rest. They are specially equipped for tourists—with electricity, water, and heating devices. Those who wish can relax on traditional platforms (tapchans) right by the lake or set up tents nearby.

The distance between Marguzor and the seventh, highest lake of the cascade—Hazorchashma (“Thousand Springs”)—is about six and a half kilometers, but the ascent to it is the steepest. Under the scorching sun, the car seems to gasp for air. The water in the radiator boils, and the driver has to stop a couple of times to cool it down.

Finally, the azure expanse of Lake Hazorchashma comes into view. It lies at an altitude of almost 2,400 meters and is fed by numerous small springs and streams flowing from the surrounding peaks. At the end of July, snow caps still lie on the rocky peaks around the lake, and white ribbons of waterfalls cascade into the valley. On the lake’s shore, yellow poppies bloom, which on the plains had already faded in May. Around the lake, one can see birch groves. Locals say that birds brought the seeds of these trees here.

There is a belief that Hazorchashma grants wishes, and everyone who reaches this lake will have their deepest dreams come true and find happiness and prosperity in their future life. Therefore, every traveler makes a wish here.

For many tourists, the last of the Seven Lakes is just a transit point. Here, the road ends, and hiking trails begin—through the Tovosang Pass to the legendary Iskanderkul Lake, the Kulikalon Lakes, and other wonders of the Fann Mountains.

In addition to the lakes themselves, tourists are drawn to the lifestyle and traditions of the local people. The Shing Valley is home to several villages with populations ranging from a few dozen to a few hundred people. The aforementioned village of Padrud is the largest of them. The local population is mainly engaged in animal husbandry. There is little arable land (the soil is rocky), and every patch is highly valued. On these patches, potatoes and other crops are grown.

In winter, the frosts are so severe that Lakes Marguzor and Hazorchashma are covered with thick ice. They freeze so deeply that locals can cross from one shore to the other on donkeys and horses. Roads are buried under snow in winter, and villagers sometimes cannot travel to the district center for 5-6 months. Therefore, before winter, people here stock up on basic supplies for at least six months.

In summer, when the tourist season begins, locals earn extra income by providing various services to travelers. They are the true guardians of these lakes.

Visiting Marguzor Lakes is not just a chance to see a natural wonder but also to witness a resilience and hospitality of the people who call this remote valley home. Their way of life, deeply intertwined with the rhythms of nature, offers a glimpse into a world where tradition and modernity coexist. For those who venture here, the journey is not just about witnessing the beauty of the lakes but also about connecting with the spirit of the land and its people.