Old City

Tashkent's Old City

Tashkent's Old City (Eskishahar)
Tashkent’s Old City (Eskishahar)

Tashkent, the bustling capital of Uzbekistan, is not only a modern metropolis but also a custodian of ancient Central Asian heritage. The Old City, or «Eski Shahar» as it is locally known, is a testament to this rich history. Here, amidst the labyrinth of narrow lanes, stand residential houses that hark back to the late 19th century, their walls whispering tales of a bygone era.

The Old City is a treasure trove of medieval architectural wonders, including the revered Kukeldash Madrasah and the esteemed buildings of the Khast-Imam Complex. This historic quarter, located in the northwestern part of Tashkent, was the original heart of the city before the establishment of the Turkestan general-governorship in 1865. The term «Old City» emerged during the era of tsarist colonialism, a time when Russian authorities were busy crafting a new urban landscape. The Anhor channel served as an informal demarcation line, separating the old from the new.

Architectural relics in the Old City predominantly date back to the latter half of the 15th century and the dawn of the 16th century, a period marked by the rule of the Shaybanids. Under the Kokand Khanate, Tashkent was fortified with a moat and clay battlements stretching nearly 20 kilometers, punctuated by 12 gates. Sadly, neither the wall nor the gates have survived to the present day.

Today, the Old City’s most enchanting locales are found near the Chorsu Bazaar and the Sebzar district. The crown jewel of this historic area is the Khast Imam complex, a grand square named after the saintly Imam Kaffal Shashi. The complex is a spiritual hub, housing the Mausoleum of Imam Kaffal Shashi, the Imam al-Bukhari Islamic Institute, and the headquarters of the Spiritual Administration of Muslims in Uzbekistan. Dominating the square is the newly erected Friday Jami Mosque, flanked by two soaring 56-meter minarets. Across from the mosque stands the Library of the Spiritual Administration, home to one of the Islamic world’s most venerated relics—the 7th-century Quran of Caliph Uthman.

The mosque dedicated to Kaffal Shashi, a luminary of the 10th century, deserves special mention. Renowned for his wisdom, Kaffal Shashi studied in the prestigious madrasahs of Bukhara and Samarkand. After a pilgrimage to Mecca, he returned to Tashkent to spread the teachings of Islam and Sharia law, earning him the honorific title of Imam the Great. His tomb, a site of pilgrimage since his death in 976, was later enshrined by a mausoleum-khanaqah built in 1541 under the Shaybanids. To this day, it remains a beacon for thousands seeking blessings.

Adjacent to the Khast Imam Complex lies one of Tashkent’s oldest residential areas, extending to the historic «Chorsu» market. At the market’s entrance, the Kukeldash Madrasah stands proudly, the largest of Tashkent’s seventeen madrasahs. Commissioned in the 16th century by the city’s ruler, Dervish Khan, known as Kukeldash, the madrasah continues to function today.

Another architectural gem is the Juma Mosque of Khoja Ahrar Vali, the city’s main Friday mosque, situated near the Chorsu Bazaar.

The Old City of Tashkent is a living museum, a monument where each street and building narrates its own unique story, woven into the fabric of this historic city.