“I do not like old wines. Wine should be drunk young.”
~ Giorgi Kipiani, Winemaker at Didgori Winemaking
Nestled in the serene village of Khvanchkara in Georgia’s picturesque Racha-Lechkhumi Region, Didgori Winemaking stands out as a family-run winery helmed by the talented and innovative Giorgi Kipiani. This remarkable winery is celebrated for its cultivation of the rare and indigenous Kabistoni grape, and it’s a must-visit destination for anyone passionate about viticulture and the vibrant world of Georgian natural wines.
The name “Didgori” pays homage to a Georgian polyphonic singing ensemble that has significantly influenced Giorgi’s journey. When he embarked on his winemaking adventure in 2014, the members of the Didgori Ensemble lent their support, prompting Giorgi to honor them by naming his winery after this esteemed group. Their likeness even graces the wine labels, creating a unique connection between music and winemaking.
The Kipiani family boasts a storied legacy in winemaking. Giorgi’s great-grandfather was part of the renowned Kipiani noble family, celebrated for producing naturally semi-sweet wines from Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes. These wines gained acclaim, earning the title “Kipiani’s wine” and winning accolades at the 1907 Grand Prix in Ostend, Belgium.
However, the advent of the Socialist era in 1921 changed everything for the nobility, stripping them of their privileges. The Soviets rebranded the wine to Khvanchkara, named after the largest village in the region where it was produced, and it was officially recognized as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for naturally red semi-sweet wine. Giorgi’s grandfather, Gela Kipiani, became the director of a well-known Khvanchkara wine factory, while his father, Bejan, honed his winemaking skills under Gela’s guidance, even learning to craft wine at home. Today, Giorgi continues this proud family tradition, supported by the wealth of knowledge passed down through generations.
Giorgi cultivates grapes across a vineyard that spans half a hectare (just over one acre) in Khvanchkara and Ambrolauri. As a dedicated producer of Georgian natural wine, he eschews the use of pesticides and herbicides, opting instead to rely on natural yeasts and practicing minimal intervention during fermentation and maturation. The wine undergoes a remarkable six months of full skin contact, which Giorgi describes as essential: “Musk is a miracle for wine! While in contact with wine in qvevri (traditional clay vessels), it acts as a natural filter. After six months of full skin contact, the wine is ready to be bottled without any additional filtration.”
At Didgori Winemaking, eleven unique lemon-shaped qvevri clay vessels are utilized for fermentation and aging. These qvevri are crafted from mineral-rich clay sourced from Sairme village in the nearby Lechkhumi region. Remarkably, some of Giorgi’s qvevri date back to 1805! Upon discovering these historic vessels, which had withstood the test of time for over 200 years, Giorgi decided to trust their quality, and this decision has proven to be exceptionally fruitful.
Didgori Winemaking produces a selection of natural wines derived from endemic grape varieties, including:
White Wines: Both dry and semi-sweet options made from Tsolikauri and Tsulukidzes Tetra (also known as Rachuli Tetra).
Rosé: A delightful blend of Tsolikauri and Mujuretuli grapes.
Red Wines: Available in both dry and semi-dry styles, featuring Kabistoni and Sakipiano from Aleksandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes. The Kabistoni wine is particularly rare in Georgia, offering a delicate dry red that serves as a perfect alternative for those who find Saperavi too robust and Tavkveri too light. Giorgi has been producing Kabistoni since 2015, but its production is limited to less than 100 bottles per year. Additionally, Giorgi enjoys experimenting, and in 2020, he crafted his first sparkling wine.
As demand for Georgian natural wines continues to rise in the West, Didgori Winemaking is proud to contribute to this growing interest by exporting its exceptional wines to the USA, Canada, Japan, and the EU
A visit to Didgori Winemaking offers guests an opportunity to delve into the fascinating intricacies of Georgian winemaking amidst the stunning natural beauty of the region. Giorgi and his father are not only skilled winemakers but also exceptional hosts, ensuring that every visitor feels welcomed and engaged. Sharing a meal with the Kipiani family is an experience to savor, as they serve up traditional dishes from Racha that perfectly complement their natural wines.
Guests can expect to indulge in culinary delights such as shkmeruli (a flavorful chicken dish cooked in garlic and milk), lobio (a hearty bean stew), and chashushuli (tender veal stew), all of which showcase the rich culinary heritage of the region. These meals, paired with Giorgi’s exquisite wines, create a memorable dining experience that highlights the harmonious relationship between food and wine in Georgian culture.
It’s important to note that family-run wineries, including Didgori, typically welcome visitors by appointment only and may not accommodate walk-in travelers. To ensure a seamless experience, it’s advisable to arrange your visit in advance. Shahina Travel maintains exclusive relationships with top family wineries across Georgia, allowing you to easily schedule your wine visit and enjoy a guided tour along with tastings in the cellar.