For millennia, qvevri wine vessels have served as the cornerstone of winemaking in Georgia, a country steeped in rich viticultural history.
The earliest known qvevri were discovered in the southern Marneuli Municipality, dating back to the 6th millennium BC. Additionally, jars from the 2nd millennium BC have been unearthed in the ancient cave towns of Uplistikhe and Vardzia. The Alaverdi Monastery in the Kakheti Region boasts qvevri that date as far back as the 6th to 7th centuries AD.
Georgians often affectionately refer to their qvevri jars as the “womb for wine,” highlighting the deep cultural significance of this ancient winemaking technique. Recognizing its importance, UNESCO inscribed the qvevri method on the List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013.
The qvevri is a lemon-shaped earthenware vessel uniquely utilized in Georgia for the entire process of wine production and storage. It is designed to accommodate every stage of winemaking, from fermentation to aging and storage. Once qvevri are buried underground in wine cellars known as marani, they remain undisturbed until the wine is ready for enjoyment.
These vessels come in various sizes, ranging from 50 to 5,000 liters, with the most popular and practical sizes typically falling between 1,000 and 1,500 liters. The quality of clay used in crafting qvevri is vital for their durability; ideally, the clay should be mineral-rich to enhance the wine’s aromatic development. Additionally, the presence of limestone in the clay is crucial, as it helps to protect the wine from harmful bacteria.
Qvevri jars offer the remarkable ability to maintain a stable temperature for wine throughout the year. During the hot summer months, they keep the wine cool enough to avoid the need for preservatives, while in winter, the surrounding soil retains the lingering warmth of autumn, allowing the wine to continue maturing without significant temperature fluctuations.
Moreover, qvevri vessels are a practical choice for winemakers, as they are generally less expensive than stainless steel tanks. When buried underground, they do not require high-ceiling wine cellars or elaborate cooling systems.
As experienced qvevri makers will tell you, crafting these vessels is a slow and meticulous process that requires patience. Many artisans begin their training as children, learning the craft from their fathers and grandfathers. This knowledge is passed down through generations and is regarded as a sacred family secret. Historically, qvevri production has primarily taken place in western Georgia, particularly in Upper Imereti and Kakheti in the east.
Zaza Qbilashvili, a qvevri maker from the village of Vardisubani in Kakheti, elaborates: “Creating a qvevri takes about three months. We can only add a few centimeters of clay each day; adding more could cause the vessel to collapse under the weight of the new clay. Once the vessel is complete, it requires 3 to 4 weeks to dry before it can be fired. A qvevri that holds 1 to 1.5 tons demands the careful effort of 7 to 8 adults to transfer it into the kiln, which can accommodate up to eight qvevri at once. We construct a brick wall around the kiln to retain the heat, and the firing process lasts a week at around 500 degrees Celsius (950 degrees Fahrenheit). Afterward, we dismantle the wall and carefully extract the fired qvevri.”
Occasionally, qvevri are coated on the outside with cement to protect against microcracks and the minor earthquakes that frequently occur in Georgia. Unlike stainless steel vessels, the porous walls of qvevri allow for interaction with the surrounding earth. Some winemakers prefer to coat the interior with hot beeswax, creating a barrier between the vessel and the earth while still allowing for micro-oxygenation. This method enables the wine stored in these vessels to mature more quickly than in conventional qvevri. Additionally, waxed qvevri are easier to clean.
Cleaning qvevri is a labor-intensive task. Typically, an adult male climbs inside the vessel to scrub it using sartskhi, a brush made from layers of cherry tree bark specifically designed for cleaning the qvevri walls. Georgians believe that if the qvevri is cleaned properly, one should be able to drink the last drops of water from the bottom of the vessel. Burning sulfur is often poured inside as an antiseptic to ensure cleanliness and to maintain the integrity of the vessel.
In the 21st century, there has been a remarkable revival of the ancient Georgian winemaking method utilizing qvevri jars. Many new family-owned wineries across Georgia are increasingly choosing qvevri as their primary tool for producing exquisite wines. The craftsmanship of these vessels has gained international recognition, with qvevri now being exported to countries such as Spain, Italy, France, Slovakia, and the USA. To order a qvevri from the most sought-after makers in Georgia, one often has to place an order a full year in advance due to their popularity and the time-intensive nature of their production.
The process of crafting these jars is no small feat, yet those who have the privilege of tasting wine produced and stored in qvevri quickly understand that the effort is well worth it. The unique characteristics imparted by the qvevri—its ability to enhance the wine’s flavors and aromas—offer a drinking experience that is deeply connected to Georgia’s rich cultural heritage.
As the world continues to discover the wonders of Georgian wine, the qvevri stands as a testament to the enduring traditions and craftsmanship that have defined winemaking in this remarkable country for thousands of years. The qvevri is not just a vessel; it is a bridge to the past, a keeper of stories, and a vital part of Georgia’s identity. Whether you are a seasoned wine enthusiast or a curious traveler, experiencing the magic of qvevri wine is sure to leave a lasting impression and a deeper appreciation for Georgia’s remarkable winemaking legacy.