In the heart of Georgia lies Kakheti, renowned as the wine capital of the country, where winemakers proudly cultivate over 500 unique grape varieties. This impressive diversity is a testament to Georgia’s long-standing history of viticulture, which dates back thousands of years.
Tracing the origins of many of these grape varieties, however, is a complex endeavor. The devastation wrought by the 19th-century phylloxera epidemic, which swept through Europe and the Caucasus, significantly impacted local vineyards. This pest, introduced to the region through Izabella vines from America, decimated more than half of the vineyards, leading to a dramatic decline in grape production. In a desperate attempt to salvage the remaining vines, contaminated lands were burned and treated with chemicals, while some grape varieties were crossbred with American vines. Although this effort preserved certain grapes, the quality of the resulting wines was irrevocably altered. The challenges did not end there; the vineyards faced further devastation during the two world wars and were plagued by insect infestations in the 1970s and 1980s.
Compounding these struggles were the harsh policies enacted by the Soviet regime, which inflicted significant damage on Georgian winemaking. In a misguided attempt to curb rampant alcoholism, the Soviet government ordered the destruction of thousands of hectares of vineyards in 1985, leading to the closure of numerous wineries. The severity of this crackdown was so profound that many winemakers faced despair and, tragically, some were driven to suicide.
The collapse of the Soviet Union brought a glimmer of hope, yet the road to recovery was fraught with difficulties. However, through the dedicated efforts of winemakers from Uzbekistan and neighboring countries, several Georgian varieties were eventually restored. Today, Georgia is home to both popular and rare grape varieties, with the preservation of vine quality being largely dependent on the unique environmental conditions, or micro-zones, in which these grapes are cultivated.
Given the extensive list of wines produced from Georgian grapes, here are some of the most notable varieties, categorized by their use in red and white wines.
Saperavi: This grape, whose name translates to “to color,” is the most celebrated red grape in Georgia. While often blended with other varieties, Saperavi is primarily vinified as a standalone dry red wine. It has become a cornerstone of Georgian red winemaking.
Tavkveri: Known for its versatility, Tavkveri is used to craft a range of wines, from dry reds to sparkling varieties, showcasing its adaptability.
Mujuretuli: Often paired with Aleksandrouli grapes, Mujuretuli is the key ingredient in the sweet Kvanchkara wines that the Racha Region is famous for.
Usakhelauri: This grape, native to western Georgia, is characterized by its dark, orb-like shape and late ripening. It is particularly valued for its distinctive “peppery” notes.
Chkhaveri: Grown along the Black Sea coast in Adjara and Guria, Chkhaveri grapes are used to produce a variety of rosé wines, including delightful sparkling options.
Ojaleshi: Hailing from the Samegrelo Region, these ruby-colored grapes yield semi-sweet and sweet wines that are known for their vibrant red fruit bouquet and spicy undertones.
Shavkapito: Indigenous to the Kartli Region, Shavkapito grapes produce robust, full-bodied red wines that are rich in flavor.
Rkatsiteli: The most widely planted white grape in Georgia, Rkatsiteli is sometimes used to create Georgian amber wine. Grown primarily in eastern Kakheti, this variety is often noted for its hints of citrus and apple.
Mtsvane Kakhuri: Found throughout Georgia, Mtsvane Kakhuri grapes are named for their ability to produce wines with a greenish hue, as “mtsvane” means “green” in Georgian.
Kisi: This native Kakheti grape is celebrated for its ability to produce refined and elegant wines, showcasing the region’s unique terroir.
Tsolikouri: An ancient variety from Colchis (modern-day Imereti), Tsolikouri is the most popular white grape in western Georgia, known for its distinctive character.
Each of these grape varieties not only offers unique flavors but also varies significantly in yield. Some can produce up to 100 tons per hectare, while others yield less than 3 tons per hectare. Efforts to increase productivity often compromise the quality of the wine, which is why connoisseurs highly prize rarer Kakhetian varieties such as Kisi, Chinuri, and Tavkveri. These lesser-known grapes, often cultivated in limited quantities, embody the essence of Georgian winemaking and reflect the region’s rich heritage and commitment to quality.