Qvevri is a large clay vessel that plays a pivotal role in the fermentation, storage, and maturation of Georgian wine. This ancient method of winemaking has its roots deeply embedded in the culture of Georgia, with two primary centers for qvevri production located in Kakheti and the Upper Imereti Region.
Among the most renowned qvevri artisans in Kakheti are Remi Kbilashvili and his son Zaza Kbilashvili. Their family-run qvevri workshop and winery, situated in the quaint village of Vardisubani, lies just 3 kilometers from the historic town of Telavi. The workshop operates under several names, including Kbilashvili Winery, Qvevri Workshop, Qvevrebi Zaza Remi Kbilashvili, and Meqvevre Kbilashvilis Marani.
Visitors to Kbilashvili Winery are invited to embark on an enlightening tour that delves into the qvevri production process. This journey encompasses everything from sourcing the clay to drying and sculpting the finished product. Additionally, the Kbilashvili family offers tastings of their exquisite Rkatsiteli and Saperavi qvevri wines, as well as their homemade chacha, a traditional Georgian grappa.
The art of crafting qvevri vessels dates back to the Neolithic period, making Georgia the birthplace of these iconic wine containers. In 2013, this ancient qvevri-making technique was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, solidifying its significance in global cultural heritage.
Despite its importance, qvevri making is a rare profession in Georgia. The craft is often passed down through generations, requiring a blend of inherited knowledge and finely honed intuition. Zaza’s children are already being groomed to become the fifth generation of qvevri makers, continuing a family legacy that likely stretches back to time immemorial.
The father-son duo, Remi and Zaza Kbilashvili, represent the current custodians of this ancient craft. Remi has dedicated over 40 years to making qvevri, having learned the trade from his father. He, in turn, has imparted this invaluable knowledge to Zaza, who began crafting qvevri at the age of 20. Remarkably, Zaza has already created a qvevri weighing two tons! His children are now learning the intricacies of the craft through hands-on experience and oral tradition.
Every aspect of the qvevri-making process is a family affair. Together, Remi, Zaza, and their grandchildren begin by digging clay from a pit located 4-5 kilometers from their home. This laboratory-tested clay, sourced from the nearby mountains, is prized for its natural, inert, and non-toxic properties.
As any qvevri master will explain, these wine vessels are not merely made; they are meticulously built. The construction must take place in a controlled environment, free from drafts and temperature fluctuations. Each qvevri is created layer by layer, with 10-centimeter circular segments of clay being carefully formed. Each layer requires protection from humidity and must be dried consistently. There are no specific tools for shaping qvevri; it is an art that relies on the hands of the maker, resulting in each vessel having a unique form. Given that any error can ruin the clay, the craftsman’s intuition is crucial during this stage. Once the qvevri is fully constructed, it undergoes a drying process and is sealed against ground moisture with a layer of wax.
The entire process of crafting a qvevri spans approximately three months, typically commencing in late March and concluding by October. The winter months are unsuitable for production due to the cold.
When their qvevri find their way into the hands of winemakers, Zaza and Remi provide essential care instructions. After emptying the qvevri, winemakers must wash the vessels thoroughly to prevent wine residue from softening the clay. A popular Georgian saying emphasizes this: a qvevri should be cleaned so well that the water used for rinsing can be safely consumed.
The porous nature of qvevri vessels contributes to the development of distinctive oxidative notes, resulting in wines that are rich in flavor, with a captivating blend of fruity and savory undertones. Winemakers favor qvevri for their tannic character, with many asserting that qvevri wines possess a unique personality early in the fermentation process. Additionally, the clay used in qvevri contains lime, a natural antiseptic that protects the wine from unwanted bacteria.
To expand your understanding of Georgia’s 8,000-year-old winemaking heritage, a visit to Kbilashvili Winery and Qvevri Workshop near Telavi is a must. Here, you will have the rare opportunity to learn directly from the dedicated artisans who have mastered the unique qvevri-making process. It’s not just a visit; it’s an immersive experience that connects you with the rich traditions of Georgian viticulture.
As you explore the workshop, you will witness firsthand the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each qvevri. The Kbilashvili family is eager to share their passion and knowledge, ensuring that every visitor leaves with a deeper appreciation for this ancient art form. You’ll gain insights into the history of qvevri, the significance of the materials used, and the intricate techniques that have been honed over generations.
During your visit, you will also have the chance to savor the fruits of their labor. The tastings of Rkatsiteli and Saperavi wines, both aged in qvevri, offer a delightful exploration of the flavors that define Georgian wine. Each sip tells a story of the land, the climate, and the time-honored practices that have shaped these exceptional wines. The accompanying chacha adds an extra layer of authenticity to your tasting experience, allowing you to indulge in another aspect of Georgian tradition.
It’s essential to note that family-run wineries like Kbilashvili often welcome guests only by prior appointment, as they may not be able to accommodate walk-in visitors. To ensure a personalized experience, be sure to arrange your visit in advance. At Shahina Travel, we maintain exclusive relationships with some of the finest family wineries in Georgia, making it easy for you to schedule your wine visit and enjoy a tailored tour complete with tastings in the cellar.